Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mmmm 1300 bucks haha

U doin sump baffles, oil return/breather from the head Etc?

Dan is pretty much making all the decisions lol. I just told him what I want out of the car etc and he will work with what I want :)

I am not sure on what parts are going in just yet I know the basic stuff just waiting on the list to be sent through.

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

....and once I get the problem Ill post in here :)

yes please, in particular oil pump and big end bearing condition. My guess is still on clearance problems causing pressure loss under load.

Put it on the dyno and see if it still drops pressure, will narrow down if its the Gs or some other issue.

Did you ever try this? It will very quickly sort out if it is an assembly problem, or a sump design issue.

Edited by Rolls

yes please, in particular oil pump and big end bearing condition. My guess is still on clearance problems causing pressure loss under load.

I am sure Dan will post in here.

Did you ever try this? It will very quickly sort out if it is an assembly problem, or a sump design issue.

I personally filled the sump with 6l as its the standard sump it still did it, so I am guessing it is oil pump issue but yeah wait and see I guess.

I suggested putting it on the dyno lol, not overfilling it.

Yes however you also said sump design which is standard hahaa. No we did not put it on the Dyno. I am just playing the waiting game hahaa lol.

Yes however you also said sump design which is standard hahaa. No we did not put it on the Dyno. I am just playing the waiting game hahaa lol.

Yep the standard sump might not be sufficient for the Gs you are pulling is what I was getting at, hence put it on the dyno and it will very quickly tell you if it is an issue with the sump, or an issue with the build.

  • 2 weeks later...

So you never tried it on a dyno to determine if it was the oil pump or the Gs and stock sump?

: /

No we didn't, however some what glad we didn't. Found half a washer(looked like a washer) in the sump just floating about. If I would of upped it more and more I could have done more damage.

The crank so far looks good so there is no need to replace that yet.

I have gone by what Dan has said and he are still trying to diagnose the issue.

Pretty much what my number 6 looked like when it let go....

it had standard pistons running 285rwkw.

what generally causes the piston to break away like that... is it just cause they're weak? or is there other contributing factors?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...