Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Volk racing Rays F-Zero Challenge forged rims.

Sizes are:

18 X 10.0 +48

18 X 9.0 +45

Comes with 255/40/r18 and 235/40/r18 Federal 595 RS-R tyres. Tyres are very new, have only done a about 1,500km on them.

Unfortunately there are a fair few scratches on these wheels. Nothing a powder coat couldnt fix though. Structurely they are fine.

$1300 ONO. (I recently paid 950 for the tyres alone and they're nearly new, so you're basically getting some volks for 350 bucks!)

(Photos of these in this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/370180-fs-volk-rays-f-zero-challenge-rims/page__p__5903534__fromsearch__1#entry5903534 )

R33 GTS-S Springs. I have a feeling they're not stock height ones.. might be a little stiffer than normal too. They were already on my car when i bought it. The uncompressed

heights are; Fronts - 330mm, Rears - 350mm. (Or the other way around..)

$100.

Bosch 040 High Capasity Fuel Pump.

Brand new, still in plastic bag and box. I paid $199 for this on JustJap.com and never used it.

$150.

ProjectMU HC+ Racing pads for R33 GTS-T calipers.

These are second hand, although have only been on a car for about 1,500kms. A few km of which was a deca. Still like new. Apparently just the fronts price at $350 new.. A full

set of fronts of rears which are only barely used for sale.

$300.

Aftermarket front and rear swaybars for a R33 GTS-T.

Not exactly sure what brand they are. There's a sticker on them that says ARC. Didnt think ARC made swaybars... They are deep purple in colour if that helps.. Anyway, Rear

swaybar is adjustable, Front is not. Comes with links and rear bushes, bushes for the front will need to be sourced as this swaybar is a fair size thicker than the standard

swaybars.

$300.

3" Stainless steel Blitz NurSpec cat-back exhaust for R33 GTS-T.

It's looking a little scratched and discoloured now, still works fine tho. It's very loud though just a warning.

$350.

3" Stainless Steel front pipe for R33 GTS-T.

Was supposed to go on along with an Invidia cat back exhaust i had which i didnt end up using. In good condition.

$100.

Brand-less De-Cat pipe for R33 GTS-T.

$50.

(If you want to pick all of the above exhaust pieces at the same time i can do a bit of a discount.)

Nardi Torino Steering Wheel.

$100.

R34 GTT factory intake pipe.

$40.

Modified R33 GTS-T intake pipe.

Has the middle cut out and a 3" metal pipe in it so as to stop it sucking shut under high suction.

FREE!

Apexi Pod Filter.

It's a little bent, nothing too distic though, highly doubtful has affected the performance of it.

$40.

Blitz mesh Pod Filter.

Unless it's a copy, JustJap has them for a whopping $395! (what the...)

Yours for $40!

Exhaust Shop made 3" rear muffler for R33 GTS-T

$50.

Crappy rear muffler for R33 GTS-T that silences the bollucks out of a 3" system.

FREE!

Factory R33 GTST front and Dump pipe.

FREE!

I think that's pretty much it.. I will be constantly updating the thread for anything i've missed/price changes. I'm open for offers as well.

Names Andy, i live in the eastern 'burbs of melbourne. Number is 0434145894 if you have any questions. I would highly prefer pick up as i'm a bit too busy to be sourcing

bubble wrap and boxes in my spare time but will sort something out if need be.

Photos will be up in the fullness of time. If you'd like some photos now just send me a txt and i'll MMS you something.

Happy shopping!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379109-r33-garage-cleanout/
Share on other sites

The Decat has iodized a bit but I can always give it a scrub for you. No cracks or holes tho. Came with a 33 gtst xaust system I bought so in theory should bolt straight up. I'll have a better look when I finish work.

Also I'm bot splitting the wheels sorry

The Decat has iodized a bit but I can always give it a scrub for you. No cracks or holes tho. Came with a 33 gtst xaust system I bought so in theory should bolt straight up. I'll have a better look when I finish work.

Also I'm bot splitting the wheels sorry

Cheers mate let me know

Well, the flange angles don't quite match up to cat on my car at the moment.. altho if i peice together the other exhaust peices i have it seems to match, i might just have a weird dump/front pipe i'm not sure.. either way you can come and have a look at it in person if you like..

Updated price list:

(See above for details. Parts not in this list that are in the above list are sold, obviously..)

R33 GTS-S Springs.

$80.

ProjectMU HC+ Racing pads for R33 GTS-T calipers.

$250.

Aftermarket front and rear swaybars for a R33 GTS-T.

$250.

3" Stainless steel Blitz NurSpec cat-back exhaust for R33 GTS-T.

$300.

3" Stainless Steel front pipe for R33 GTS-T.

$80.

Brand-less De-Cat pipe for R33 GTS-T.

$40.

(If you want to pick all of the above exhaust pieces at the same time i can do a bit of a discount.)

R34 GTT factory intake pipe.

$25.

Apexi Pod Filter.

$35.

Blitz mesh Pod Filter.

$30.

Exhaust Shop made 3" rear muffler for R33 GTS-T

FREE!

Crappy rear muffler for R33 GTS-T that silences the bollucks out of a 3" system.

FREE!

Factory R33 GTST front and Dump pipe.

FREE!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
    • Being a race car, and being in the era of the Arduino, one would think it would take little effort to build a controller to do the spraying based on a real physical measurment. Waaaaay back in the dim dark AS days, JE "designed" (as in, he had help) a microcontroller based intercooler spray system. It watched the difference between a temp sensor stuck on the core and one in the free air in front of the cooler, and if the temperature difference exceeded a (settable) threshold, it would activate the sprays. Thus, it only ran water when there was an actual need for water. If you stop to think about the actual physical things that are going on in that stack of coolers, there's probably at least a couple of triggering conditions one could come up with, and one could probably even run one pump with more than one solenoid valve, to allow water to be placed where it is needed, or at all points at once (if it is needed at all points). We're in the age of science baby. But.... I suspect that intercooler water sprays are on the forbidden list in most circuit classes, no? So only good for Targa type stuff?
    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
×
×
  • Create New...