Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I am wanting to get a different BOV but i want the flutter sound valve not the typical whossshh. What are the names and models of any flutter sounding BOV's that you guys know of. And if any of you have one are you willing to swap for an HKS BOV?

your help is much appreciated,

Thanks

JL

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37919-bovs/
Share on other sites

I never knew u could buy BOV's which make the flutter sound

ive got a factory bov with an fmic and i get the flutter....pretty sure its only the fmic which makes that noise

Or by removing something around your turbo so air hits it harder or against the wastegate ??? which creates the flutter...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37919-bovs/#findComment-763682
Share on other sites

shouldnt cause to much damage

thats same sort of principle for VLs when they wake on a cooler and get flutter

my turbo is still in good nick and thats running some high boost as well

but then again stock skyline turbos r made from pottery clay :-p so i wouldnt really risk it..

nick lets test it on urs :-)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37919-bovs/#findComment-763750
Share on other sites

Get a BOV, plumb it back, and get performance out of your car.

I think he's more concerned about the noise his car makes rather than the performance of the thing. :D

runnning no BOV hinders performance... u serious??? haha

Dead serious...... what are you laughing at?

:slap:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37919-bovs/#findComment-763838
Share on other sites

*sigh*

well from memory a BOV unless running high boost is not going to improve performance on anything... infact im pretty sure in one of my speed mags where they had a 4 page spread on them and what they do they are only designed to release pressure to extend the life of your turbo.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37919-bovs/#findComment-763900
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...