Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys I wired in a new fuel pump into my 34 GTR and found it didnt work(and yes I got the wires correct and yes the pump works when tested elsewhere).

After that I resoldered the original fuel pump back in to check if it was a resistance thing etc, but that didnt work either, there is no voltage from the wires at the fuel pump

.

So for the moment I have just added a new relay in and got the power from the ignition circuit to switch the relay on and have the fuel pump direct battery voltage feed.

But I would really like to get the orignal circuit working. The fuel pump fuse is fine. I have checked all the fuses in the boot, near the drivers kick panel and under the near the jump start point in the engine bay. Are there any other fuses or can someone tell me where the fuel pump relay is actually located.

My understanding so far is that the ECU fuel pump relay signal puts out .6v (checked against another ecu in my car), from there I think it goes to an earth controller of some sort and then switches the relay on.

Im just shy of tracing wires, but if anyone can give me a heads up on how the circuit works i would be rather greatful.

Edited by sinistaGTR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379292-r34-gtr-fuel-pump-electronics/
Share on other sites

well.... the fuel pump relay control on the ecu is actually contolled by the inputs the computer receives.

There is a fuel pump drive controller that turns the relay on and off.

Whan i turn the key on i get .6v for 3 secs so this indicates that the the signal is working fine (manual says approx .8v). Seems i may be having trouble with this drive pump controller.

Anyone know where this drive pump controller or the fuel pump relay is located.....im getting closer to this problem

Ok so quick update.... I took the battery terminals literally off then back on....and BAM 12v out the original fuel pump wires....so now have the 14v direct feed relay with the original fuel pump wiring being the swith for my relay....

random electronics lol

  • 1 year later...

bringing up an old thread, went to start the car this morning and it cranked fine but wouldnt kick in...

after abit of investifating we believe its probably the fuel pump as i was not getting any sound prior to cranking (power not getting to the pump??)

checked kick panel, front and rear fuse boxes, all looked good. tried unconnecting the battery and restarting with no luck..

i have a haltech platnium pro plug in that and i will take the laptop down tomorrow and try and see if anything pops up on the logging, and maybe rebooting the ecu (not sure if disconnecting the battery would do this anyways?)...

anyone have any ideas or tips, advice to solve the issues that seem very similar to the above.

any help will be greatly apppreciated.

Cheers,

Anthony

Relays are under the rear rt tail light. Make sure you are getting a pulse on that relay and there is 12v on it.

thanks for the tip mate, was wondering where they are.

im pretty hopeless when it comes to fixing things but will give that a shot tomorrow.

just under the internal boot side wall carpet? or further?

Relays are under the rear rt tail light. Make sure you are getting a pulse on that relay and there is 12v on it.

Hey mate,

Anything else i should check after doing the above test? what should i check if it is? or if its not etc?

thanks

u need to test the power at the fuel pump not the relay. and remember u need to test it while either cranking or wiyhing the first 3seconds or so while its supposed ti be priming once key on

Thanks mate, i will look into doing this on the weekend and go from there.

Cheers,

had another look at my issue this morning, and it appears that im not getting power to the relay or the fuel pump.

has anyone had these issues before? from research and looking at wiring diagrams etc it appears the fuel pump control module could be broken. may have to look at hard wiring the pump direct to the battery to fix this? does anyone know an easy way to test if that is 100% the problem, or would be the fact that the pump isnt getting power proof?

here is the wiring diagram i found for reference.

post-85191-0-58317400-1371967241_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...