Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

after searching the motorsport thread i havnt found too much info on racing rx7`s and nothing really on my question above,

what are the costs of building a s6 rx7 track car compared to a gtr? (taking out the initial cost of the car) nothing crazy either, everything on a medium budget, good parts good tuning but calculated decisions.

lets say the equivelant of a gtr with a couple of hundred kilos shaved and approx 350-400rwkw

how quick can you get them around a track compared to a gtr?

and built by a good tuner, how reliable can they be (obviously taking very good care of it)?

also, how does the chasis compare for racing between the two?

is anyone racing one of these at the moment?

and if anyone can give me their opinion on racing rwd vs 4wd that would be appreciated aswell.

im not too familiar on rx7`s and rotary`s either so any information is great.

as much as i love gtr`s for a street car, it seems silly to throw money into 2 rb26`s

also if anyone knows, what sort of power and weight you would be chasing for that sweet spot for a competetive rx7 to keep up with quick gtrs and possibly, put a few in their place.

and dont get me wrong, their is no better car in my life then the gtr, i am a true enthusiest, just interested in some information on something different

starting with something like this for example

http://www.global-auto.ne.jp/stock/public_stock_detail.php?entry=0016.dat&model=MAZDA

or these these 2

http://www.global-auto.ne.jp/stock/public_stock_detail.php?entry=0021.dat&model=MAZDA

http://www.global-auto.ne.jp/stock/public_stock_detail.php?entry=0022.dat&model=MAZDA

you get my drift

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379491-info-on-racing-s6-rx7s/
Share on other sites

400rwkw 13B is asking for trouble, stick to under 300rkws

Handling wise is chalk and cheese compared to the fat GTR

There are still 10+ year old Production spec RX7s stomping all over EVO9's etc

They are arguably the best handling car to come out of japan

Yes I did mean power to weight, but in saying that though, it seems odd that you can't safely go more then 300rwkw on a race prepped 13b turbo, in that case, what would be the pros and cons of switching it to a 20b turbo engine?

Will the eng swap make it in eligible for alot of events?

And are twin setups or single setups better suited to a track rx7.

I know this is a skyline forum but this is my home and I know there are a few rx7 fans on here

Oh you go do 400 or even 800kws...just dont expect it to last.

the factory twin turbos are massivley complicated so everyone who can (rules) goes single

20B would be good, but expensive and rare these days, also heavier,

NA 20B would be awesome though ;) Ala the Grand Am RX8s (youtube them they sound un-real) and they make 400+hp (flywheel)

Mate I have owned and race both a GTR33 and a S6 chook cooker. Both cars in basic Tarmac rally spec, the Mazda was quicker first tme out than i ever did in the GTR for a third of the price but to go faster you need to go single turbo or NA 20b both options allowed in the race series we run here in Tassie, over the years a number of people have run GTR's here but have found deep pockets are required to run at the front. The best thing about the GTR was the launch off the line but my chook cooker is just as good, they have a fantastic chassis for a race car. It depends on what the regs are for the race series you want to do. Like you I love my GTR and have had one as a road car for 10 years and its great. If you are looking to get into a chook cooker I have mine for sale as I have bought a new race car and I just dont have the space to keep all the cars I have.

hehe you remind me of my old man when you say chook cooker, the only difference is when he said the word chook, it was about chooking something in the a$$ lol

when you say single turbo im guessing you mean single 13b? not sure if you meant single turbo 20b.

and yeah i am likeing this rx7 idea although at the moment its just speculation as i am overseas for a little bit longer.

how much are you asking for your ¨chook cooker¨if you dont mind me asking and what are some of the specs?

I too loved my R32 GT-R tarmac rally/race car and moved to an FD RX-7 as every bit of research confirmed that it was going to be more cost effective for similar end performance at both circuit racing and tarmac rallying.

As Jason points out you do give up time in a standing start, but depending on the type of events you want to do starting is only one part of the race.

Compared to a GT-R the RX-7 is a more cost effective car to buy in good condition and prepare the chassis, simpler to maintain, and is cheaper to repair both mechanic and body issues... providing the car is well set up by rotary knowledgeable people, and with the correct support systems for the power level you want you will enjoy good reliability.

I'm on the tail end of my RX-7 build and very happy with it... although had I developed my old 200SX or old GTS-t to a similar level of spend as my RX-7 the end result would no doubt be comparable in performance.

Very true Woo, but from a circuit POV the fastest car within the TAS Sport GT state catagory at the moment is an big turbo R32 GTS-t and previously a very nice S14... further to RX-7s, GT-Rs and 911s.

The FD has a lot going for it and is perhaps the better choice, but I still have a soft spot for the those two RWD Nissan's.

i like the whole tarmac rally type of racing, but would def be taking it to tracks.

what sort of costs are associated with building a reliable race spec 13b turbo engine, without including turbo, fuel, management ect.

as i stated before, i dont have a clue when it comes to rotary's.

and marlin, on the tarmac rally side of things, what sort of power and weight would you be looking at in the series 6 to be elegible and lets say, very competetive.

Edited by M.C Ren

there is an RX7 racing in the MRA series with a chev in it :)

1.04's on slicks at Wakefield I think its best time is?

I love the shape of the RX7's series 6 onwards - just a rotor scares me for running costs!

i like the whole tarmac rally type of racing, but would def be taking it to tracks.

what sort of costs are associated with building a reliable race spec 13b turbo engine, without including turbo, fuel, management ect.

as i stated before, i dont have a clue when it comes to rotary's.

and marlin, on the tarmac rally side of things, what sort of power and weight would you be looking at in the series 6 to be elegible and lets say, very competetive.

T01-100 is the guy to speak to mate, he knows more about rotors than me, and makes the rules that allows circuit racing RX7's with big singles elligible to compete in Australia's best tarmac rallies!

Given the new rules of 300RWKW and basically as light as you can make a caged one (1,150kg?), they'll be untouchable. Unless you have a fit 996 Turbo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...