Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I washed my car last thursday avo. The next night i went to my mates house and parked on a steep driveway. Half an hr later i went to get something out of the boot and noticed at puddle about 50cm near the back right corner of the car. I thought it might have been fuel but, noticed it was water. I then saw water dripping from the back bar.

Opened the boot to have a look around. Felt down behind the quarter panel to notice about 2inches of water sitting in there. I had some rust cut out of the wheel arch about 6 months ago. They also but some rust preventative in the quarter panel too. I dont think that is the cause of it.

Would it be ok if i drill a small hole in the bottom of the quarter panel at the wheel arch near the guard to let the water drain out?

The seal is coming out a bit on the top corner of the back window. Would that be the cause of the water getting in there? It would have to travel down the back pillar thru the chassis to get there.

I am not sure...

Does anybody know of a good window/window seal person in gold coast/bris southside?

The car is a 32 gtst.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37976-water-in-rear-quarter-panel/
Share on other sites

I had a similar problem with water in the right rear quarter panel. I traced it back to a leaky tail light - they also half filled with water! I used a towel to wick away the moisture in the lights and then used some silicon sealent to seal the inside of the taillight unit. I also wicked the water from the quarter panel and since then I haven't had the problem happen again.

I had a similar problem with water in the right rear quarter panel. I traced it back to a leaky tail light - they also half filled with water! I used a towel to wick away the moisture in the lights and then used some silicon sealent to seal the inside of the taillight unit. I also wicked the water from the quarter panel and since then I haven't had the problem happen again.

Do you have a 32? I think the tail light setup is different on a 33, thats all...

I havent really had a good chance to have a look at it yet. I suppose this super long weekend is a good time to sus it out.

Any windscreen place can fix your rear window seal......by the sound of it , the fool who did ur rust work has bogged/welded up your drain hole...all cars have them....check along the bottom of the seam where your inner quarter and outer quarter join(underneath) Something like this...

drainjpg.jpg

poke some wire up in there or carefully run a drill up one to clear it out....other than that drill from the inner guard as low as you can .....be care full tho, and remove the water first, like everyone else said....you dont want water running out of a freshly drilled hole into the electric drill your holding :zap:

Yeah I find that everytime I wash my car I rip off all the boot covers and dry out the puddles in my rear quarter panels plus where my space saver is.

I'll be taking the tail lights apart soon, and am looking at buying a tonne of silicon to make sure it doesn leak, but by the sounds of it if you do a search here and SDU it is a common problem for 33's and it a bugger of a job to fix up :)

Do you have a 32?  I think the tail light setup is different on a 33, thats all...

I havent really had a good chance to have a look at it yet.  I suppose this super long weekend is a good time to sus it out.

Yeah I've got a 32. The tail light lens assembly is fitted by some sort of sealant and in mine there was a leak that allowed water to slowly get through.

I have a rubber pipe on the left side quarter of my car that drains water from *somewhere* in the bodywork.

My car has no rust otherwise.

T.

I'd check this first, it happened to me. Stick your head under the car and see if you can see the tube coming out, mine was inside the panel instead of poking through the whole. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...