Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

looking at building a strong RB chasing revs not over all power or response

what path do people think i should go down

parts/motors i got

rb25de neo x1

rb25det x3

rb20det suit rebuild x2

turbo t67 10cm hight mont

nistune and all the bolt ons

full work shop with equipment with ok mechanical experience, hands on yes theory no haha

help be appreciated thanks matt

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm guessing cause it sounds cool.

Rb 20 crank in 25 block with gtr or stronger rods and custom forgies would rev hard and hold together.

Makes the gears abit longer and i love limeter

Normal 300kw 25 is getting abit boring

Thinking of working neo24 for its soild head with 20 crank and rods, low comp, porting

Not sure what cams valve springs to use or type hmmm

Ye there is some serious investment that needs to go into the head.

Just a set of springs really isn't going to cut it for extended 9000rpm+

sounds good. some 290 degree cams maybe?

Well 290 degree cams give you 1000rpm response over any other choice according to some around here, so they should be the first items purchased!

Ye there is some serious investment that needs to go into the head.

Just a set of springs really isn't going to cut it for extended 9000rpm+

Well 290 degree cams give you 1000rpm response over any other choice according to some around here, so they should be the first items purchased!

espesially is they have JUN or HKS stamped on them..

No other 290deg cams will do it though

Hahaha.... But seriously you want revs and you don't care about power or response... Buy a Honda with vtec yo, or for even more fun, go an give yourself a tax audit.

You'd be mad to put in anything less than 320 degree

Or use the money you will need to spend on it rev to 9k for any extended period without lunching itself on 5 stock motors with boltons like most skidders do.

Lunch a motor, swap in a new one, simple.

Do that.

The most insane RB track car I've ever heard, as well as a large amount of guys from the drifting in melbourne was powered by a stock RB25.

Of course if it had 290 degree cams and a smaller stroke crank with custom rods and pistons it would've been better

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...