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R33 Battery Clamp

Nate85

By Nate85,
in South Australia

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Nate85 Apprentice

Nate85

Posted
Posted

Hey guys

I'm having some trouble finding a new battery clamp for my skyline, I've been to multiple places such as supercheap, a few auto elecs and have had no luck so far.

Also went to Nissan dealership but they want to slug me $300 for the cable included which I don't want to spend.

I've attached an image of exactly what I'm after, does anyone have an idea where I could find a replacement easily?

Cheers!

post-62654-0-64744800-1318805060_thumb.jpg

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380341-r33-battery-clamp/
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jrm Veteran

jrm

Posted
Posted

Should be able to pick up a regular ground battery clamp from anywhere and then just wire in the cable to it. Not sure why you're having so much issue - is it the size of the terminals? I got sexy gold terminals for mine from Jaycar, I think ..

Aberax Grand Master

Aberax

Posted
Posted

I replaced mine awhile ago. I used some 0 gauge cable, a gold battery terminal connector with volt meter, and a solder/crimp eyelet from Motortraders (now Bursons) for the positive side.

Ground side I used 4 Gauge cable, battery terminal connector and a solder/crimp eyelet.

Carbon 34 Grand Master

Carbon 34

Posted
Posted (edited)

I replaced mine awhile ago. I used some 0 gauge cable, a gold battery terminal connector with volt meter, and a solder/crimp eyelet from Motortraders (now Bursons) for the positive side.

Ground side I used 4 Gauge cable, battery terminal connector and a solder/crimp eyelet.

FYI, always use the same size ground as your power, the current path is from ground to positive .......not positive to negative like most people think. it can cause voltage flucuations and induce noise in the car stereos

dude shite can the factory stuff its junk, and use car audio cable instead, , solder the connections with a butane torch and electronics solder. , heatshrink the terminal. run a ground from the alternator mouning bolt to the battery , or on cars with rear battery, to the factory ground point in the engine bay, it improves the spark, and charging system on unibody cars.

if the factory has currugated split loom on the wire , put in on the new stuff as well, it would be a chaffing protection issue

while your at it dump the factory baby battery if you have one still. get a sealed AGM or Spiral cell one.. you can do both for under 300 bucks if you shop wisely.

4ga(max 120-150 amps) is min for car starting, 0ga(250-300amps) is better, but much harder to work with and cost a bunch more.

Edited by Carbon 34
Aberax Grand Master

Aberax

Posted
Posted

FYI, always use the same size ground as your power, the current path is from ground to positive .......not positive to negative like most people think. it can cause voltage flucuations and induce noise in the car stereos

dude shite can the factory stuff its junk, and use car audio cable instead, , solder the connections with a butane torch and electronics solder. , heatshrink the terminal. run a ground from the alternator mouning bolt to the battery , or on cars with rear battery, to the factory ground point in the engine bay, it improves the spark, and charging system on unibody cars.

if the factory has currugated split loom on the wire , put in on the new stuff as well, it would be a chaffing protection issue

while your at it dump the factory baby battery if you have one still. get a sealed AGM or Spiral cell one.. you can do both for under 300 bucks if you shop wisely.

4ga(max 120-150 amps) is min for car starting, 0ga(250-300amps) is better, but much harder to work with and cost a bunch more.

I think I still have some 0 gauge left, I'll swap it over once I get the car back. The good thing is, it didn't cost my anything either as I knew the guys working at Strathfield when it was still arround.

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