Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

just purchased a set of BC BR series coilovers for my 33 gts-t. Just a quick question as attempting to install my first set of coilovers myself.

As in the picture, which part of the lower mount faces the front of the car? I've done a search but couldnt find anything but I swear I've come across the answer somewhere before.

Also what is the black ring used for that is cable tied to it?

Sorry for the noob question,

thanks guys

post-78007-0-12704900-1318925262_thumb.png

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380547-coilover-install-question/
Share on other sites

the part in the right of your photo goes aginst the mount (hub side) for the coilover, the other side is where the washer/nut goes, so it spaces out from the hub a bit and doesnt rub/hit

as for the black ring.... I never got anything like that with my V1's, it doesnt fit over the bit its bolted to?

the part in the right of your photo goes aginst the mount (hub side) for the coilover, the other side is where the washer/nut goes, so it spaces out from the hub a bit and doesnt rub/hit

as for the black ring.... I never got anything like that with my V1's, it doesnt fit over the bit its bolted to?

Thanks for the quick reply and help mate.

Yeh it loosely sits on top of the hub side of the coilover (right side in the photo) so im guessing maybe a spacer of some sort?

I have the v1's and they didn't come with that black ring. But if it fits there loosely it might just be to help with vibrations or something. If your worried then ask the place you got them from or email BC direct. I'm only guessing

other than the spacing, you will find that the holes are actually tapered for a tight fit. make sure you get the rear ones on the right way around as they dont have the offset difference. and rely on that taper for a secure mounting. also speaking from V1's experience, but im sure they are the same.

other than the spacing, you will find that the holes are actually tapered for a tight fit. make sure you get the rear ones on the right way around as they dont have the offset difference. and rely on that taper for a secure mounting. also speaking from V1's experience, but im sure they are the same.

Thanks for that mate, didnt notice the taper on the rears at first but yeh they are the same on the BR's.

Edited by ANDR33W

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...