Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi there guys.

i just bought a z32 ECU - with nistune board - for my RB25det ( s13 conversion ).

all works perfect - but the vtc... it's not working :(:( with stock RB25 ECU it works fine.

can't figure it out.

what could cause that problem ?? any idea's ??

cheers guys.

how do you know the vct is not working?

when revving U can easily hear it "click" - from under the hood.

when stock ECU connected it works fine - dyno all fine

with z32 nistune board plugged in - it does not click :( and it's like 100Nm loss :(:(

Have you checked for power at the solenoid up the front?

Also, you can turn VCT on at idle and it should change revs noticably. Use the nistune software to do this, its an easy test

the power should be there ( on stock ECU it is ) ; ( it's triggered by negative from ECU )

how can i turn the vct on with nistune software ?? i'm new to nistune .....

i know you say it works on the stock ecu and not on the z32 nistune board

just check you have a working NTR switch, from memory, VCT (at least on the stock ecu) wont fire in neutral, the car must be in gear (clutch in)

never had problems with that - it was always cutting in when parked revving ( by hand from under the hood ).

none of the gearbox sensors connected - speed / reverse etc.

last time i checked - it was powered - by typing "should be there" i ment - it was there like an hour ago - last time i checked ;) no worries mate - i got your point ;)

but it still doesn't work :(:(

Think pin 113 in the ecu is VTC control power, check this with a test light when rpm is above 1500.

But as the guys said above if the ecu doesnt get all the signals required (speed and neutral/clutch switch) than it wont activate the solenoid.

Because u said dont have a speedo in ur s13 u should be able to go into nistune and set the minimum speed for vtc at 0 and try it

yeah - it is pin 113 - and no - there is no negative coming out of it :(:(

i can't see the option - " minimum speed for vtc " - only MAXIMUM hmmmmm

PS. Neutral switch - if not connected - the ECU thinks it's on gear all the time right ??

Edited by kubus

yeah - it is pin 113 - and no - there is no negative coming out of it :(:(

i can't see the option - " minimum speed for vtc " - only MAXIMUM hmmmmm

PS. Neutral switch - if not connected - the ECU thinks it's on gear all the time right ??

i thought pin 113 is a positive?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...