Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Recently I was involved in an accident when a ford fairmont failed to give way to me and has wrecked the front end of my R33 GTS4, with the impact just in front of the drivers side front wheel.

This has resulted in ~$8000 damage, with the other guy being uninsured (and owning his car for less than a month, fully financed), Im thankful I paid the premium for full comprehensive.

My insurance company has approved the repairs and I've been told there will be a wait on getting a new stock front bar. With the high price for brand new stock panels, what would be my chances of getting a (cheaper) aftermarket front bar?

I'm thinking of calling/visiting in person the panel shop and asking them if i sourced a bar at a cheaper price (and paying a bit extra if need be) they would be fine with it? I'd probably do the full kit at the same time.

Thoughts?

Cheers,

chicane

If you speak to the panel beater about it, i dont see why he wouldn't agree - if its cheaper, he could still charge the insurance company for the stock front bar and keep the difference *shrugs*

doesn't hurt to ask

i wouldn't ask the insurance company tho

I had a small incident about 1 month ago, very minor only need a new front bar thats all. But i spoke to my panel beater and arranged him to get a cheaper alternative and he has quoted them for a more expensive bar. So i will get my whole front resprayed with a new front bar. As far as the insurance agent is concerned once a quote has been accepted it doesnt matter what the panel beater does as long as he doesnt charge them more than he has quoted.

The key is to talk to the panel beater b4 u get the quote and arrange for him to do what u want to the car. If he refuses u go find another panel beater. In my case I had an original cWest front bar which my panel beater quoted a replacement value of 2500. So i told him to get a copy bomex bar (i was getting kind of bored with the looks of my car) for 450 and then with the rest of the money he agreed to respray the front section of my car (bonnet, left right quards, side skirts).

I am happy with the dealings, the panel beater is happy (he get business), the insurance agency is happy (he pays what he has been quoted).

An aftermarket copy front bar like a 400R or veilside etc should only cost about 450 from carmate. Talk to your panel beater and find out what he has quoted for the front bar from Nissan. You will find that the nissan item is more expensive tell him to get an aftermarket front bar. As long as he can save some money he will do this for u.

Hi All,

Spoke with the panel beater today.. he said that all replacement parts have been ordered from Nissan in Japan (Front Bar, Light assembly, etc, etc..) and that there will be at least another few weeks wait on it for them to arrive. Apparently once a "stock order" takes place you can't cancel it once its been processed.

He said that a stock front bar costs $550 from Nissan, and after painting etc, about $750.

On his recommendation I'm going to call back up on Tuesday to speak to the person at nissan about cancelling the front bar order and for me to order the nismo 400R replica one.

How much work/fitting cost would apply to an aftermarket 400R bar? Are they ready to paint? Do they just bolt on? he estimated it could cost me an extra $500 or so to get it fitted and ready to paint.. is this true?

Cheers

chicane

I dont understand, a good aftermarket front bar should just bolt on with MINIMAL adjustments. There is no reason as to y he should charge u 500 to alter it. ESPECIALLY if he hasnt seen the bar. How can u charge someone money to alter a bar when u cant even tell if u have to alter it in the first place. I have had 4 different front bars replaced on 3 cars in the last 5 years and only once did a panel beater have to take an extra 30 mins to hack/alter a poor quality bar. And he shoudnt have to charge u for paint cause thats part of the quote.

Thanks for the replies people..

Wish I spoke to the panel beater earlier about getting a different bar.. I mean even though it is on order from JP Nissan (thru AU Nissan probably) if it hasn't been received it should be able to be cancelled yeah? I'll put these points to him when I speak to him on Tuesday and hopefully he will be a bit more helpful.. makes sense to go an aftermarket bar now rather than later!

Will keep this thread updated.

cheers

chicane

Hi all,

Spoke to the manager at the repair shop as well as the parts guy @ nissan bundoora.. He said that its Nissan JP's policy that parts are non-returnable.. however he would hold the part at his dealership until an order comes up for one, but it would be my money holding it, not his.

The repairer said that if I sourced the bar, I would be up for another 200-400 to fit/paint it.. I said "hey but the paint should be included in the quote!" but he was sure that there would be more "work" needed to it to prep/fit it as opposed to the stock one supplied by Nissan.. :thumbsup:

Wondering now if it's more trouble going the aftermarket one now :D :D

Basically most aftermarket bars you are going to find in Australia are not great quality, and always require some stuffing around.

Most panel beaters despise the products produced by these fibreglass shops, as they have to spend much more time sanding it back, adjusting, and removing imperfections than a quality factory product. Basically it takes them more time = more money, which is understandable. So they prefer the factory stuff, that "as is" comes pretty much ready to paint and fit.

The japanese original plastic or fibreglass kits are generally so much better and similar to factory quality, but then again why you're paying $500 for a copy instead of $1200+ for a front bar, etc.

To be honest, if you go for an aftermarket bar and have your car lowered (even just to the legal height) within 12 months you would have put a decent sized crack or scrape in it. Its inevitable if you drive your car, and even more so if you drive it hard. So often the stock bar isn't such a bad idea...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...