Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

I'm having a bit of trouble with the rear coilovers in my M35.

I have Tanabe sustec coilovers and can't seem to get the rear level. The rear passenger side always sits 7-8mm higher than the drivers side.

Here's what I have tried to fix it.

Both sides set the same height. = out of level

Drivers rear set higher = out of level

Swapped spring assembly side to side = out of level

Passenger set lower = out of level

Loosened all arm joints to rest bush tension =out of level

No matter what I do the passenger always sits 7-8mm higher and its p*ssing me off as I can't work out why.

So, anyone have any ideas what it could be and if you have had this problem or had to adjust one side different to the other to get them level?

And it's creaking badly on that side and again can't seem to stop it.

Thanks guys.

Edited by slippylotion
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380886-m35-rear-suspension-troubles/
Share on other sites

Interesting. If I set the spring at the same height on both sides the passenger side is about 8mm out. I dropped the passenger rear by 8mm and after letting it settle it's still about 3mm higher than the drivers side.

That said, I haven't loosened the arm bolts at all yet so maybe it has something to do with that.

So yours does the same!

At least I not going mad thinking its just my car. I've almost given up trying to sort it out.

I think the creaking noise I'm getting is from the rear swaybar D mounts. Will pull them out tomorrow and re grease them.

What heights did you run with?

Edited by slippylotion

Check which way the bolts are in. eg doing up one bolt on one side might make the suspension go up as doing it up on the other side might make the suspension go down. Or when you use your spanners you will notice pushing down one side and up on the other.

I have the same problem on my GTR even if I raise the lower side it just raises the other one aswell.

I havent got it sorted yet either. I put it down to a slight bent chassis from going up my steep drive way the same way every time. I need to come in the other way a few times to twist it back.

Just hit a pot hole or bump on the higher side it might raise the strut tower to the same height as both sides which will then lower your height.

Happy to say finally the car sits level and the creak has now gone. I adjusted the passenger side 10mm lower but it still sat higher. I also could not pin point that creak but my suspicions where toward the upper control arm and the sway bar.

So today when I got home I jacked her up yet again ? and it was creaking away if I lifted the hub assm up and down. I then disconnected the sway bar link to check it all out, all looked good so I put it back in. Then took it for a test drive and the creak had gone ? then when I got home the car was sitting level. I don't know how to explain it but both problems have now been sorted by removing that link and refitting it. Not sure if some how it was causing the problem 100% but it seems to have solved it and that's all I care about.

So now onto to fitting the trams shift kit this Friday/Saturday.

Nice one Paul. No workshop and a lack of confidence from me - I don't think I'll be tackling it myself any time soon. Are you getting it done Dunc?

I think I will eventually, I can get access to a hoist but I lack the confidence for this one so I'll be looking to get a workshop to do it

Happy to say finally the car sits level and the creak has now gone. I adjusted the passenger side 10mm lower but it still sat higher. I also could not pin point that creak but my suspicions where toward the upper control arm and the sway bar.

So today when I got home I jacked her up yet again ? and it was creaking away if I lifted the hub assm up and down. I then disconnected the sway bar link to check it all out, all looked good so I put it back in. Then took it for a test drive and the creak had gone ? then when I got home the car was sitting level. I don't know how to explain it but both problems have now been sorted by removing that link and refitting it. Not sure if some how it was causing the problem 100% but it seems to have solved it and that's all I care about.

So now onto to fitting the trams shift kit this Friday/Saturday.

So what you're trying to say here... is you need Whiteline sway bars from Dale? :whistling:

No issues with mine and I have the Whiteline front and rear sway bars, Whiteline rear links, and Dale's rear mounts. Works bloody awesome!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Was going to say the car pulls up nicely everywhere, especially going into that last long right hander before the main straight. Looks like a lot of fun.
    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
×
×
  • Create New...