Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 203
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

.....dammit...why do all these things happen when I have no money.....again f**k you GFC and making me loose 2 jobs this year

Alvin...you are not allowed to strip the car until next year!!!!

ahahahahahaha, if i can fix the left indicator blowing fuses today, i might just hold the car till rego runs out. lol.

otherwise, i'm butchering her today.

as for cheapie china manifolds, if he can weld the cracks, no problem!

looking good zebra, cant wait to see it finished.

you're not fussed about using cheapy china manifold and it cracking in time?

Cheers, China manifold isnt permanent, just needed to get the car going asap....Will go fancy everything down the track

ahahahahahaha, if i can fix the left indicator blowing fuses today, i might just hold the car till rego runs out. lol.

otherwise, i'm butchering her today.

as for cheapie china manifolds, if he can weld the cracks, no problem!

hahah

If you have a aftermarket stereo in the car I can guarantee that is what is causing your issues, Headunit/amp and indicator wiring all run off the same plug under the head unit

Cheers, China manifold isnt permanent, just needed to get the car going asap....Will go fancy everything down the track

hahah

If you have a aftermarket stereo in the car I can guarantee that is what is causing your issues, Headunit/amp and indicator wiring all run off the same plug under the head unit

well, yeah, headunit's aftermarket, there's some aftermarket sub in it, but i have no idea where it is. LOL.

and, issue was that the bulb's casing itself is f**ked.

zebra what happened to you rc engine store?

Its still there but nothing happening with it :(

well, yeah, headunit's aftermarket, there's some aftermarket sub in it, but i have no idea where it is. LOL.

and, issue was that the bulb's casing itself is f**ked.

ah that sucks

Sub will be in the parcel shelf in the middle, factory fitted 10" jobbie, sits under the same cloth covered thing-o that holds the rear middle brake light

I was thinking yesterday that there is no way this engine has 230,000ks on it.

It is way too clean inside..the water jackets look way to clean...like brand new....not a hint of stain on them...the engine has definitely been out of the car before and the sump has non factory looking sealant on it...wonder if it has had some epic rebuild and I find a set of JUN rods and pistons lol??

here is hoping.

Either way it gives me confidence to lean on it with the new turbo

I was thinking yesterday that there is no way this engine has 230,000ks on it.

It is way too clean inside..the water jackets look way to clean...like brand new....not a hint of stain on them...the engine has definitely been out of the car before and the sump has non factory looking sealant on it...wonder if it has had some epic rebuild and I find a set of JUN rods and pistons lol??

here is hoping.

Either way it gives me confidence to lean on it with the new turbo

mine has 203k kms

I think Toyota engines in general always seem clean inside. I changed the waterpump in my IS200, inside the radiator and the water pump housing (whole cooling system) were like new. My car has done just under 200,000km.

Comparing it to my Skyline (130,000km) and Bluebird (300,000km??? ODO stopped working years ago) - Thier cooling systems seem sh*t, even with changing coolant every year.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...