Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 203
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hahah I'm going to try and do it period mod, So it looks like it was wrapped in a bubble in 1997 or something.

So something along the lines of an old school Jap turbo kit (td06H-20g anyone :whistling: )

We shall see, what happens, it has a built A340E and a 3k(ish) stall, so next year sometime I'll drop a 5 speed in it get some big brakes on the front and get into some track work again.

Going to keep this one nice and simple (re: minimal mods) and tidy it up...and the most important thing

DRIVING THE BLOODY THING!

tl;dr? sub 300kws, brakes, drive

yeah or that.

I figure that if I keep it VERY simple I should be right lol

I wasnt planning on selling the Soarer...but this was too good to miss :thumbsup:

Also means I no longer have to keep an eye on my105 for a cheap as chups track car as I'll just use the supra

Back to the Car - I originally thought that the Twin Turbo R wasnt all the much different to the regular JZA70, I initially thought that all it got was much lees weight, recaro seats, momo wheel and Bilstein shocks.

Turns out it also has bigger anti-roll bars and stiffer springs, Now the Bilsteins are long gone (now has KYB's) No plans to change those just yet, as this car will well and truly be a case of if it aint broke don't fix it. May even save a thousand odd bucks on the brake upgrade and throw some track spec pads at it and see how it goes.

so no more soarer????

Still here being picked up just after xmas...did yours sell or are you parting it?

brake rotors and pads first, dont be one of ''those fanboys'' that think they need brembos to be fast.

brakes are pretty average standard, 300x22 with a single piston caliper

Dont fit

There is/was a kit out there that used R33 Gtst Sumitomo calipers and a 324mm rotor, was looking at pics of the kit yesterday and in all honesty it looks rubbish

Wilwood do a kit for under a grand using 330x28mm disks and their forged superlight calipers.

Not a huge fan of the cheaper wilwood calipers, so may buy the hats and get a thicker rotor and their better caliper and have bracket made to suit.

Just stumbled across this pic

I knew the 1JZ had short rods, but not this short

1JZ-gte rod and piston on the left and 2JZ-gte rod and piston on the right, 2JZ rods are shorter than RB30 rods too btw

1jz rod is 125.25mm, and look how solid the thing is! So any plans I did have of rebuilding the 1J down the track just got a whole lot cheaper :D

DSC03034.jpg

1J and 2J pistons also have the same pin height, so they are interchangeable but the piston crowns are slightly differernt

wow that's a short rod, the 1j rod looks alot thicker than the 2j rod too.

the piston skirt looks a little different between the two.

Edited by tweety bird

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
    • Shimmed or shimless, still solid, no hydraulic pump up stuff.
    • They have said food will be limited. Mainly meat pies and sausage rolls from memory. But they have a coffee van!
×
×
  • Create New...