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Grab yo ass a deal, im pissing off so i need cesh to buy party drugs and drugs are expensive.

LOCATED NEAR MITCHAM IN SA, CAN POST (WHEELS) ANYWHERE IN AUS

TYRES

ALL PRICES ARE AS PAIRS

16"

2x 205/55 - Mismatched pair - 50% tread - $40

2x 205/55 - Mismatched pair - 60% tread - $50

2x 205/55 - Nexen - 60% tread - $60

17"

2x 205/50 - Mismatched Pair - 80% tread - $70

2x 215/45 - Mismatched Pair - 60% tread - $60

2x 245/45 - Michelin/Firestone (mismatched pair) - 60% tread - $60

19"

2x 255/30 - Advan Neova AD08 - 60% tread - $110

WHEELS

Info:

Set of Rays Engineering/Volk Racing - Challenge Wheels, Genuine, no copy shit here, white with red inners. (Made in Japan)

Specs:

5x 114.3 Stud Pattern

17x8" +32 -- 235/45 Tyres (60% tread)

17x9" +35 -- 255/40 Tyres (70% tread)

Fit overs big calipers

Condition:

Great condition, a few scratches here and there, but good overall.

Price:

$950

Pics:

http://img541.images...59/img0547m.jpg

--------------------------------

Info:

Pair of STERN Wheels (Made in Japan)

Specs:

5 - 114.3 Stud Pattern

17x8" +32 -- 235/45 Tyres (60% tread)

Fit overs big calipers

Condition:

A few scratches here and there, but good overall.

Price:

$200

Pics:

(one on the left)

http://a2.sphotos.ak...7_6560505_n.jpg

PARTS

WRECKING BOTH R32 and R33's, post in here or PM me what you're after. a few specific parts:

TRUST GREDDY gear knob: $50

DE-CAT (gutted standard cat) suit nissan: $70

R33:

R33 GTR Rear Strut brace (fits all R33's): $90

RB25 S1 AFM: $100

R33 Brakes, uprights and hubs (complete) - $800

R33 front Upper control arms - $70ea

R33 Upper control arms/Traction arms - $50ea

R32

3" Straight Through Exhaust (from dump back) - $250

RB20 AFM: $100

R32 GTR grill: $140

Whiteline 22mm Solid Rear Sway Bar (+links): $150

REINFORCED Rear Subframe - Reinforced and Solid mounted/Lifted(improves strength, rigidity and roll centre) - $200

Front Sway Bar - $40ea

Front Complete upper control arm assembly's including bracket and king pin bearing - $100ea -- PICS PICS

Front Camber Arms - $40ea -- PICS

Rear Traction arms - $35ea -- PICS PICS

Rear Camber arms - $35ea -- PICS

Rear Hub Uprights - $100ea -- PICS PICS

Rear Complete Uprights - $70ea

Rear Toe Rods (non-hicas) - $40ea -- PICS

Door (drivers side), 2door (coupe), silver with few scratches - $50ea

Drive-shafts - $50ea

Stock Clutches, 1 half warn, one fair bit more warn - $30 and $70

  • 2 weeks later...

Mate, do you have a set of uprights for the R33 GTR? (not sure if R33 GTS and GTR are the same, need to check FAST).

Mike

0432 562 025

  • 1 month later...

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  • Latest Posts

    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
    • I used to do that (sills with rubber jack block).. ... then I got side skirts, and there's no way for the jack to actually work there, the jack pad itself on the jack is too big. Is the answer to use a... smaller (?) jack? Hmmm.
    • I have too much trauma from every skyline I've ever seen having crushed jack points/pinch welds lol.    Yep, works 100%, it's what I use when I'm using the quick jack. Don't know why I can't also bring myself to do the same thing when I'm using a jack. I blame the skyline PTSD. 
    • The pinchweld is fine, even with a trolley jack, so long as you're not actually pushing on the pinchweld itself. More to the point, we shouldn't talk about lifting or supporting on the pinchweld, we should talk about using the sill "jacking points", which just happen to be adjacent to the pinchweld. I just have dense rubber blocks with grooves in them for each of the chassis stands and the trolley jack, that I use at the sill jacking points if/when I have to lift/support there. They put all the load onto the steel pad of the jacking point and not the pinchweld. As intended.
    • Makes sense.  I would do something different if I felt like there was a better option. Generally the only other area I'm happy to jack on is where I want to put the stand. The pinch weld is not an option for me for either the jack or stands, so very limited options overall.  Plus never having had an issue with doing this, has kinda reinforced in my mind that it's fine. I'd do it on any car without a second thought these days lol. 
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