Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so im having some issues with me new engine.

got a reco cammed rb30 put in, needed to use a few parts off my old engine.

- Lifters

- Whole Intake System

- Whole Fuel System (rails, plugs injectors etc)

- flywheel.

- wiring, ecu, trans, clutch etc were left intact while engine was replaced (not replaced)

1st Issue: this engine knocks exactly like my last one although not quite as bad (happens anywhere between 1500 and 3200 approx rpm), this engine has a mild stage 2 cam in it.......it is currently usuing the lifters out of my other standard cam engine...same problem, i am almost adiment this issue is lifters but i need advice on what lifters to get because i dont know the cam specs.

Youtube link:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=DvmlchfBaE0

2ND ISSUE; When the car gets to normal operating temps (anything over a quarter on the gauge) it randomly starts misifring as if the engine cuts out completely for a minute amount of a second......doesn't do it when its cold, only when it is getting warm, few people have told me Crank Angle Sensor but i'm not sure...

Cheers in advance guys.

Edited by SPINR31
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381332-r31-rb30e-need-help-asap/
Share on other sites

if it was the lifters it wouldnt be making a knocking noise just a tapping noise, have u checked ur valve clearence?

who rebuildt your motor? did they change big and main bearings?

it was a mate that rebuilt it, all the bearings were NOT changed at all, he im not sure if he checked valve clearance

i had a higher than standard lift/duration cam fitted to my R31 RB30E head, . . .not 100% sure as to why BUT the lifter cradles HAD to be machined to suit that cam, if you havnt had that done then that could be your problem

the thing is the motor was knocking before you rebuilt it, and now its still knocking and you didnt change ur bearings. so i reckon could be a bottom end knocking

i dont know if you can change the bearings while the motor is still in, if you have enough room to take the sump out and change the bearings

the thing is the motor was knocking before you rebuilt it, and now its still knocking and you didnt change ur bearings. so i reckon could be a bottom end knocking

i dont know if you can change the bearings while the motor is still in, if you have enough room to take the sump out and change the bearings

nah this is a different motor to my old one that was knocking, it was knocking the same though with the new motor, which leads me to believe that it is the lifters, or rockers as they are the only bits from my old engine.

i had a higher than standard lift/duration cam fitted to my R31 RB30E head, . . .not 100% sure as to why BUT the lifter cradles HAD to be machined to suit that cam, if you havnt had that done then that could be your problem

yer i have heard that to but i dont know the specs for the cam so i dont know how much needs to be machines off the lifter blocks

2nd issue - Crank Angle Sensor

yer cheers, i thought it may have been, do you know if vl and r31 CAS are the same? i read somewhere that the vl use hitachi ones and the r31 use mitsubishi? but does it matter :)

yer cheers, i thought it may have been, do you know if vl and r31 CAS are the same? i read somewhere that the vl use hitachi ones and the r31 use mitsubishi? but does it matter :)

General rule of thumb is ...

If it plugs in it "should work" but either way they should be the same

nah this is a different motor to my old one that was knocking, it was knocking the same though with the new motor, which leads me to believe that it is the lifters, or rockers as they are the only bits from my old engine.

yer i have heard that to but i dont know the specs for the cam so i dont know how much needs to be machines off the lifter blocks

pull the cam out and take it to a cam grinder and they will have the means of measuring the lift and duration of your cam, from there you can work out if/how much you need to machine off the lifter cradle

be aware that using old lifters is fraught with problems, if they arent matched up to the lobe that they were running on before then they can be noisy, always use new lifters with a new cam and buy good quality lifters, i made the mistake of getting cheap ones and the effing things didnt fit nicely in the lifter cradle

pull the cam out and take it to a cam grinder and they will have the means of measuring the lift and duration of your cam, from there you can work out if/how much you need to machine off the lifter cradle

be aware that using old lifters is fraught with problems, if they arent matched up to the lobe that they were running on before then they can be noisy, always use new lifters with a new cam and buy good quality lifters, i made the mistake of getting cheap ones and the effing things didnt fit nicely in the lifter cradle

yer i was going to take it to wade cams in melbourne, having said that who does lifter cradle machining, closest to bendigo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...