Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all.... When u installed new clutch, do u need to do "run ins" or " soft drive / no trashing " for at least minimum 500k's before you can trash the clutch hard??..or doesnt matter??i will tell u the reason after why i ask once u guys answer the question first....

Well its one of those things where theres two sides, one say it is essential to wear it in for 500-1000 but other say pretty much you just thrash let it cool down thrash let it cool down a few times and its done. For example if its a track car you really cant afford to much around with driving around for 500km so a couple laps around the track thrash cool down and usually its fine. ive done both ways and have been fine but yeah personally I think its just a warranty precaution clutch companies use so as to guarantee since if you do drive it 500 to 1000 km easy it is certain the clutch will bed in but doing it the quick way if you do overheat it too much you can prematurely wear it so for a street car I would recomend to wear it in proplerly as its no rush but track car gota take the shortcut.

Usually?? Means its not necessarily and you dnt have to right? Well if thats the case i might have wasted my money and possibly will be getting a new clutch again as my new clutch has already been slipping .. Im sending it back to the company as they insist to investigate it further as To why its already slipping..clutch is actually on the way back to the company today, had a chance to see it before it was sent back And the shop owner told me its got all blue marking all over the clutch disk which mean heat.. He said its most likely i didnt do proper run ins.. He told me for atleast the first 500k to take it easy otherwise clutch would worn out easily.. Is this correct? And the owner advice me most likely the clutch company would not cover warranty on it if it finds the faults was me.. Which mean i just wasted alot of $$$!!! Is ther anything i can do about this?? I dnt want to buy another clutch if there is a way out.. Any suggestions as to what i can do if worst comes to worst?

We tell customers at work it's mandatory they take it easy for 1000-1500km. No excessive slipping, 4x4 work (some cases) or general hard driving, towing etc. etc.

Twice had incidents where KNOWN hoons (the type to kick and spin EVERY gear change, everywhere) come back a week later having clutch problems, and the clutch has been obviously abused. Obviously no warranty as soon as the clutch was sent back. One was a V6 VU ute, dual mass flywheel both times, quite expensive.

You'll be hard pressed to find a manufacturer who will give you warranty on a clutch that's been raped on it's first drive.

You don't take a fresh engine to the drags or a drift day and limiter bash...

You don't hang off the brake pedal from 300km/h down to 0 with new pads and rotors...

I dont like your chances with warranty as this is why they put the requirements to wear in. As i said if you try thrash it straight away but you do overheat it too much then yes you can damage it. What exactly did you do how did you drive? And how many kms has it been?

I dont like your chances with warranty as this is why they put the requirements to wear in. As i said if you try thrash it straight away but you do overheat it too much then yes you can damage it. What exactly did you do how did you drive? And how many kms has it been?

Well first things first, i hardly drive my car, i mean like 3x a week and i do get carried away sometimes... Since the clutch was in, i have done 1500 klms and i honestly i did gave it a hard time several times since.. Im no hoon tho..i just wanted how it would feel like with the new clutch in.. I guess im learning it the hard way.. Im pretty new with these sort of stuff..

When i put my new clutch in i was told to use it, not abuse it (ie, no clutch kicking, 6k launches etc).

I've been reasonably heavy footed on it since day 1 and have never had an issue.

Yeah but you have an awesome clutch

Clutch should be bed in - always.

Button clutches, not so much - they kinda find their own way if you know what I mean

If you do 6k launches and clutch kick on the first half a dozen drives then expect shit to be problematic.

In fact, clutch kick at all and you need to be slapped. I have never seen the use in clutch kicking, get more power

Clutch should be bed in - always.

I also go by this, clutch companys don't give warranty out to something that looks like its been abused. And going by the sound of yours having heat marks, i wouldn't hold my breathe they'll give you another one.

Was the flywheel machined during the new install? The material on the clutch plate(s) needs to bond with the flywheel smoothly in early life. Any hard launch or general abuse will result in bad surface match, thus leaving nasty crap on the flywheel that will eat your clutch faster and progressively get worse In the first few hundred kays, baby the car off the line. Do a bunch of hill starts, without sliding the clutch at all. Find the balance of the clutch so that you can get off the line without using throttle input until fully disengaged. Drive like this habituously and you will pride yourself on footwork.

WOT throttle is ok whilst not on the clutch. Any product worth its value will bite from the get go. My car performed full power runs on the chassis dyno with a 150km old clutch. Its simply how you make the clutch transfer the power whilst the car is stationary that will determine how long it will live. Have you ever tried to push a 1400 kg vehicle? Our drivetrains dont enjoy it any more than we do!! I found that my pedal feel changed overnight (about 700 km in) and am really happy with it.

Except one time when someone stole my car in broad daylight, drove it 50 metres, then brought it back...

b108a012.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
×
×
  • Create New...