Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am sure the car would still still be driveable, but wheres the fun in that?

The only way i can think of getting no boost is to either stop the turbo from spinning or keeping the wastegate open, therefore bleeding off all exhaust gasses.

Neither are very practical.

Maybe just buy a GTS

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38180-running-0-boost/#findComment-771319
Share on other sites

As for the bov noises below 0 psi. keep in mind that yr intake is a vacuum when your boost gauge is below 0. infact when it reaches 0 it means your turbo has equalised the vacuum with an equivalent amount of boost. its still bossting... but not to positive pressure, its just lessened the vacuum. so when u let off the gas it still makes a noise.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38180-running-0-boost/#findComment-771352
Share on other sites

Realy depends what yah waste gate is set at ... your waste gate spring is the decider on how low it will go ...

as for the BOV valve activating under no boost , well natural pressure is set at 14.7 psi at sea level .... so there will be still pressure in the intake but not above 14.7 psi

there for your BOV is set very lightly.....

yes your car can be set at 0 psi and yae it would perform just as good as a non turboed version of your engine but due too the low compression of your engine due too the turbo there would be no great power figure and it would be low on torque, there for having too accelerate more too assiste the torque meaning you would use a bit more fuel than with having the turbo boosting at the first place ......just set the turbo around 5-7 psi and you will still get the torque and fuel efficiency you want ....... just get two stage boost controller i prefer the Greddy profec B as its simple and does a great job for cruzin and race set up .....

as too HIPSI's message yes the computer is set too a standard boost lv around 7-10 psi for most std turbo cars ....you can divert this process by a boost controller but you may upset the computer's settings by doing so its all in the computer set up ... i know for a fact most cars will allow you too set boost pressure to whatever cause most std computers rely on the Actuator Valve for there boost readings and do not actually set the boost them selves .......only after market Computers can have an override for boost pressure ....

but just remember that the Spring in the actuator or waste gate is the monitor for boost pressure you will not drop lower than the spring pressure rating but vacume makes boost bressure rise .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38180-running-0-boost/#findComment-772068
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
    • I NEVER think about using a scissor jack unless there is absolutely no other alternative. f**king things are dangerous, annoying and stupid.
×
×
  • Create New...