Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr Triple Gauge Swap

shane344

By shane344,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

shane344 Collaborator

shane344

Posted
Posted

OK, I have been paying more attention to 33 GTRs in mags lately since getting my RS4s.

I noticed a couple had Nismo gauges in the centre console which showed a much more useful stuff than mine:

2011-11-04195004.jpg

Its my white shirt reflecting not a scratch:)

I have had a quick search and not found much other than these:

http://www.nengun.co...skyline-r33-gtr

R33 consoles also have a notch top right that the c34 dash doesn't...

I would much rather a water temp than battery voltage and a more useable boost scale would be sweet.

Are the sensors wired to the plugs in the dash or would i have to find a water temp signal?

I do not want external gauges, I still like the torque split and my clock.

Anyone know for certs?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382105-gtr-triple-gauge-swap/
Share on other sites
Bodella Proficient

Bodella

Posted
Posted

I have been looking at these and thinking the same thing. While messing around with the stereo I noticed the gauges are a single pcb board with one plug in the back. I guess you could workout which wires are for the individual sensors and hack a connection to the Nismo ones if the signals are the same.

I am starting to think Defi Gauge setups would be easier, I think Nick has one of these(?).

BigDirtyJase Experienced

BigDirtyJase

Posted
Posted

The Defi DIN Gauge would be eaiser...but the gauges are 2 temps and 1 pressure and there is not other combinations. Unless that's what your after.

At least you got triple gauges and the ablity to mount gauges at the top of centre console...us RS4V guys have to contend with gauges either in the middle or the bottom (damn double din headunit)

GoldZilla Grand Master

GoldZilla

Posted
Posted

I've got Defi gauges, but it's 3 separate 52mm meters, not a DIN gauge like that shown. As for the double-DIN stereo, I got rid of mine because it was starting to play up anyway. Lucky for me, my car (being an s1) doesn't have the climate control functions trapped in there.

Zorro Community Regular

Zorro

Posted
Posted

Yeah i was looking at the nismo r33 gauges aswell (i like the torque split too), just bog up the corner and paint or di-noc over it! Then figure out connections... oh and its oil temp btw!

Or, you can get single din, tripple gauge (staggered), faces for about $25, from most good parts stores (cant remember the part number off the top of my head - i'll put it here later)! Then fit any guage you want.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...