Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

From my experience:

Poly Pineapples = Easy to install; reasonable improvement (when set for minimum compliance not squat or drift) in axle tramp and handling with no extra NVH

Alloy lock bushes = Easy to install; major improvement in handling, no axle tramp with a little more NVH

Solid Alloy bushes = No compliance, you can't get any more solid than solid. NVH will be much worse than above but if it is a track car who gives a sh1t

Go the solid alloy bushes for the ultimate drift/track solution but you do have to drop the entire rear subframe out of the vehicle and getting the old bushes out and the new ones in is a pretty big job (press fit).

I'm running the alloy lock bushes and they are a big improvement over the poly pineapples, cheaper and just as easy to install.

I have some (barely) used poly pineapples for sale ($50) if you want to try them out

I run solid subframe bushes in my R33 they work well and you can adjust the subframe as you require. They were a massive pain to install and I am still in the set up stage and learning what does what. I would recommend the easy fit alloy lock bushes but if you have the time and want to play fit the solids but just remember you can stuff the handling the wrong way also and it will take a fair bit of work to get it back to what it was before.

Check my build thread if you want pics of mine.

Good luck.

Solid is not always the best way to go.

A stupidly stiff and solid chassis can be a nightmare to create latitudinal grip with.

It comes back to what sort of compliance you have in the control arms (believe it or not arms should be designed to have a "tuned" amount of dynamic flex.) bushings/rod ends etc.

Iike Ryan said and has probably discovered it's far easier to go backwards than it is to go forwards alot of the time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, also, forgot to add these photos I believe.
    • Thought i'd update on this. I was able to get in contact with Craig Lieberman and later on Darryl Alison (owner of Kaizo Industries). Darryl was able to help me verify that my car was in fact one of theirs and is helping me find more info on mine !
    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
×
×
  • Create New...