Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys got my welder on Saturday and im already in love

the misses is having a very hard time getting me out of the garage

iv done a fair bit of scratch start tig before but a proper tig is so much better

this is what i have done so far

Made this for a 180sx

post-63394-0-76278400-1320794194_thumb.jpg

this is a 180sx intake pipe

it seals good but eh im not that happy with it :(

post-63394-0-24299900-1320794227_thumb.jpg

post-63394-0-46800100-1320794258_thumb.jpg

and this is a quick r33 intake i made up last night

post-63394-0-98666700-1320794443_thumb.jpg

post-63394-0-31474000-1320794453_thumb.jpg

post-63394-0-07623400-1320794461_thumb.jpg

slowly getting better

hmm what should i attempt tonight??

Edited by Abe2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382472-abes-tig-work/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 100
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

The best thing to do is just keep welding; practice makes perfect.:thumbsup:

I reckon pipe welding is the most difficult thing to do neatly, so just keep at it, you're not contaminating your welds, which is good. Are you purging?

Depending on the finish you like, it might be worth your while to get some pickling paste for cleaning.

I'm not into the polished finish, so pickled, then brown 3M pad gives a nice brushed finish; but to each, his own.

You'll get smoother and neater; the prettiness will come. Good on you for being game enough to show pictures, good luck.

Edited by Daleo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382472-abes-tig-work/#findComment-6102877
Share on other sites

thanks guys

and yeah iv heard about pickling paste i reckon i should get some

sounds like a easy way to clean up some quick welds

and yes more practice is best on the large small pipe i purged

cheers guys ill get more pics up soon :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382472-abes-tig-work/#findComment-6102967
Share on other sites

Pickle paste and scotch bright pads and they will look a million bucks. The secret is to run back over your weld without filler rod will make it nice and smooth also try a small weave to get your nice half moon shape

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382472-abes-tig-work/#findComment-6104303
Share on other sites

Pickle paste and scotch bright pads and they will look a million bucks. The secret is to run back over your weld without filler rod will make it nice and smooth also try a small weave to get your nice half moon shape

If you cut your joints tight enough, you can just fusion weld (no filler) pipework in the first place. Not as strong though.

It never occurred to me to go around again... Isn't that cheating? :whistling:

I wish I could weld like the contract pipe welders we get in at work; theirs just looks like a robot did it.:worship: Still if that was all you did 12 hours a day; you'd want to be pretty good.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382472-abes-tig-work/#findComment-6104423
Share on other sites

Pickle paste and scotch bright pads and they will look a million bucks. The secret is to run back over your weld without filler rod will make it nice and smooth also try a small weave to get your nice half moon shape

You could also try the "walking the cup " style of welding to help with consistency ;-)

For stuf like intakes and cooler pipes I only do a nice hot fuse but try and roll the pipe so I get in one run ...

It's only a fuse weld but is still a full weld and plenty strong enough for cooler pipes and intakes!

As for going back over the welds I use to think it was cheating also lol but it's not that uncommon of a practice In the last year I have heard heaps of ppl say that's what they do hahaha

Although if it was structual I would do a nice hot root run first make sure u have peno first then go over it if need be

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382472-abes-tig-work/#findComment-6104531
Share on other sites

I fuse as well but in his case to do a run over will make it nice and neat it is cheating but can save a ugly weld but after a while you can just tack 4 points and fuse right around looks wicked when you get it right. I tig almost everyday and when scratch tiging on site the run over can get out the lumps makes it easier to clean.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382472-abes-tig-work/#findComment-6104703
Share on other sites

use a eBay ac/dc welder I have one has never let me down they are good for the money but if you want to spend 4 g on one get a lincon they kick ass and have all the things you need. eBay ones do the job just as well iv had mine for 3 years now

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382472-abes-tig-work/#findComment-6105171
Share on other sites

tig welding takes practice as with anything. i think its harder then mig and about the same as stick to learn.

just got to practice as with anything else... the more you do the better you'll eventually get

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382472-abes-tig-work/#findComment-6105568
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just a thought, how come you didn't use a 4D table? So you essentially run 2x fuel and 2x ignition tables, and the table/map switch is handled when there's enough WMI pressure detected. This is mine, but using the flex sensor as the 4th dimension, note the slider at the bottom. Between 0 to 70%, the timing is blended/interpolated , once it goes past 70% ethanol full send
    • Hi guys, after dreaming of owning a JDM legend for 20 years, I got the chance to buy a 1995 R33 GTR.  I live in a small country called the Solomon Islands which is in the pacific. There is no performance car scene here, however 90% of vehicles here are 2nd hand Japanese imports so there is a handful of JDM sports cars here, tucked away.  3 Evo VI’s, 1 180sx turbo, 2 GTO’s, 1 R32 GTR and 2 R33 GTR’s.    Only 1 Evo and a 33 (mine) are active. I’m hoping to set up a club to get these cars back in the road.    I’d known of my GTR for 9 years and always dreamed of owning it. At the start of this year I found it sitting outside a workshop waiting for a respray. It was in pretty bad shape, although running and driving perfectly apart from a big exhaust leak and worn out bushings. My brother in law who is a huge GTR guy came over for a holiday and I took him to see it, he got into my ear and I bought the car 2 weeks later as is.   I’ve had a pretty bad problem with alcohol and weed since 2020 and I really wanted to quit. So I used this as my motivation. I quit everything cold turkey and have been investing all my spare time into restoring this car. It’s honestly been the best experience and has been such a positive impact on my life.  There is no market for these cars here, no parts and no mechanics that can work on them, so if you wanted to sell one it would be pretty impossible unless you found the right buyer. After a bit of negotiating with the previous owner (a good friend) I got the car for $15,000 AUD ($85,000 SBD) which is insane.  I’ve almost finished doing a refresh on the engine, new turbos, spark plugs and split fire coil packs. Also new gaskets and seals, This car had no leaks to begin with, but it’s due now being 30 years old. . Next I’ll be working on the suspension, all new bushings, ball joints, king pins and new coil overs.  Then it will be body work, it has really bad rust in the boot floor, I have purchased a rear beaver cut from my bro which will replace the rusted out one. The car is originally KL0, but was burnt orange when it landed here, then it was resprayed toxic green and then Bayside Blue. I’m probably going to get it redone in Bayside Blue.  I’m super grateful to be able to enjoy this car and couldn’t have done it without my bro Chris from OG-JDM. Looking forward to the future with this car and hoping to get it on the runway at the airport here 😂  cheers fellas 
    • Also, it is just about triangularity. The less angle, the easier it physically is to do. Think of the amount of slip you're getting, as how hard you need to push an object. More slip, equals pushing way harder. Then the ramp is how steep the hill is. The Accel is less slip, which means it takes less pushing (less slip) to get it to be able to push apart. However, the steeper sides on the decell means it will take a lot more pushing (slip) to get it up the ramp.
    • It's the angle of the ramp from the vertical. You're measuring from the horizontal. To convert, take 90* minus your angle reference = Nismo Angle.
    • I agree, thus 45 degree is the *max* force one could apply to it. This is similar to what I've seen in uh... simulations... which allow you to play with diff ramp angles. Anything higher (or lower) than 45 degree would produce less force as 45 is the max... triangley.  I would state the 1 way is 90 degree, at least this is how my brain and other ways of explaining it refer to it. 90 degree also effectively acted completely open. I realise Nismo refer to it not as 90 (or 89) but "1". So I'm not understanding the angle on which these angles are based.
×
×
  • Create New...