Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Fellas

I own a 1994 R32 GT-R and live in Sydney,

The Genuine buckets are getting pretty smashed up. The drivers seat has rips and the sponge is really weak too so i was thinking about getting the seats reupholstered but i thought about the cost of getting the sponge fixed aswell as a neat trim.. I gather it would be pretty expensive... still probably worth to get a quote or two.

Anyways My Question is If i were to get some aftermarket bucket seats is there buckets that's not over the top in price but looks nice. id pay up to about probably 1.5K for good ones.

If i had to buy aftermarket ones could i buy the rails that will be a direct fit to the car or will i have to be drilling holes in stuff to fit the seats?

I'm only a short ass so i don't want hyper low ones haha !! the genuine buckets were perfect ride height for me so i want something with the same height if i can please..

Thanks for any help i appreciate it heaps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382553-bucket-seat-advice-please/
Share on other sites

Brides all the way mate, huge variety to be able to suit you and your preferences, and rails for bolt in.

I have a red Bride CUGA (carbon backed) with a 33 GTR passenger in my 32 gtst and it is amazing, if you want more comfort and a bit less aggressive bucket go a bride euro series.

Just make sure you get genuine ones, jessestreeter.com is the place to go.

Brides all the way mate, huge variety to be able to suit you and your preferences, and rails for bolt in.

I have a red Bride CUGA (carbon backed) with a 33 GTR passenger in my 32 gtst and it is amazing, if you want more comfort and a bit less aggressive bucket go a bride euro series.

Just make sure you get genuine ones, jessestreeter.com is the place to go.

awesome ! thanks heaps

how much are the ones you bought? yeah the main thing is it not to be super low , same height as before . cus im a short ass i dont wna be sucked into a masssssssive bucket haha !

Do they have a reclineable that has the bucket lift upwards ( like a normal seat ) aswell as reclining backwards? i guess im dreaming now haha

Edited by sultanaz

I really like this, http://www.nengun.com/bride/euro-ii

I want to get both drivers and passengers seat. But i wonder how id get the rails to Suit R32 GTR

What do u reckon of the Euro?

Edited by sultanaz

They are the seats I would have gone if I did't get such a good deal on the CUGA.

The best thing about them is that as with my cuga and zetas etc is they are really buckety and supportive but if you are driving for a while they make you sore (they make you drive with your knees together)

quality is second to none and the euro series is like an evolution of gtr seats ( buckety but livable)

They are the seats I would have gone if I did't get such a good deal on the CUGA.

The best thing about them is that as with my cuga and zetas etc is they are really buckety and supportive but if you are driving for a while they make you sore (they make you drive with your knees together)

quality is second to none and the euro series is like an evolution of gtr seats ( buckety but livable)

They are the seats I would have gone if I did't get such a good deal on the CUGA.

The best thing about them is that as with my cuga and zetas etc is they are really buckety and supportive but if you are driving for a while they make you sore (they make you drive with your knees together)

quality is second to none and the euro series is like an evolution of gtr seats ( buckety but livable)

haha thanks man :D i got it the first time tho ;) hahahah x3

yeah my gtr is a weekender but i want something comfortable and the one i picked looks really nice in my eyes , looks like exactly what im after.. but im just curious about the rails if they make em for the R32 gtr

Does anybody know if the brides meet ADR standards?? Keen on some new seats myself but dont want trouble from the fuzz lol

I thought about this too, but surely they would have some sort of ADR standard.. if not , seat covers ;D , im gna engineer my entire car soon enough so that wont be a problem.

Yeah haha im gna buy the black ones i love the simple look ay :D

and also my genuine buckets are worn down like all of them for the age.... the sponge where the supportive side where your leg sits is rooted so bad its like no squishyness

Make sure you take a seat in a Bride first, they aren't very wide in the arse area.

thats alright haha, im not a big guy anyway haha. Will they be the same width as a Genuine seat tho? i hope its not smaller, or if it is... not by much.

Very keen on them seats been pming them.

Any other info fellas please give me your part :)

thanks to everyones input so far, greatly appreciated

Put in a couple of extra dollars and get R34 GTR Seats, ADR (legal) and they are a sweet seat, no point in spending $1500 on seats that you have to remove if you get defected for them, for around $2000 you can get genuine Nissan R34 GTR seats that will bolt straight in.

Do the $1500 seats have rails included, they will cost at least $500 for a decent set at least.

Shop smart, shop S-mart

Put in a couple of extra dollars and get R34 GTR Seats, ADR (legal) and they are a sweet seat, no point in spending $1500 on seats that you have to remove if you get defected for them, for around $2000 you can get genuine Nissan R34 GTR seats that will bolt straight in.

Do the $1500 seats have rails included, they will cost at least $500 for a decent set at least.

Shop smart, shop S-mart

Im going to get the entire car engineered.

Im buying the Bride Gias 2 Low max as a pair

R34 GTR seats are nice and what you said is correct but 2grand for used R34 Seats or 1300 for Brand new Bride that look way better.

I went over his house today and sat in them, i really liked them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...