Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 158
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I do mate, but it's a little bent. It's not bad though - you could probably bend it back into shape. You can have it for free.

You can have the bonnet for free too :) And the driver's side front guard :)

I do mate, but it's a little bent. It's not bad though - you could probably bend it back into shape. You can have it for free.

You can have the bonnet for free too :) And the driver's side front guard :)

your a good bloke frank, Ill take it!!!

Ill even take away the crash and bash bonnet and front guard and stick em in my bin.

whats you number again, sorry

email it to me if you dont want to share: [email protected]

Update to the list of stuff -

Lower dash trim - $40

Door cards $30 each - passenger door card has a tear near the mirror - easily fixed

Mirror triangle cover thing - $20

centre vent - $80

driver's side round vent - $40

dash in good condition some very small bubbles (didn't notice until i found out these things bubbled up) $100

centre console storage thing between the seats $20

centre console surround that the storage thing connects to $20

rear quarter trim $20 each

rear wiper motor and arm $40

passenger door with window and motor (minus door card and mirror) $60

dash cluster (218,635kms) $30

dash cluster surround (missing headlight switch) $40

indicator stalk $40

A pillar trims $20 each

entire boot trim - don't have the cover for the wheel arches $40

glovebox $50

sun visors $20 both

rear vision mirror $20

door seals - driver's side has one crack in it, passenger side perfect $60 both

Mirrors - $40 each

front windscreen (has small chip - been there for years, no probs) $100

rear windscreen $200

passenger side quarter window $60

tail lights $40 each

rear bar $40 - has one dint and one scratch

passenger side front guard (has slight bend) $20

Passenger front guard (bit bent) - $20

driver's front guard (rooted from accident) - free!

bonnet (rooted from accident) - free!

kick panels - $10 each

brakes - all 4 calipers, rotors etc and hand brake assembly $600

brake booster $40

3" catback exhaust $100

stock dump pipe to cat including sensors $40

rb20det $offer!!

starter motor $50

Pod filter $20

AFM $100

hicas rack $40

fuel tank $100

fuel pump $30

Interior carpet $50 - has a tear in the driver's side (probably easy to fix), otherwise perfect

Centre dome light cover

Centre dome light (without cover)

front reading lights $15

roof lining $30

stock crossover pipe including BOV $40

Stock rb20det side mount intercooler $30

rb20 power steering reservoir cap

rb20 power steering reservoir (minus cap) $15

A/C compressor $50

Climate control panel $60 - not sure if the lights in it work

bonnet hinges $20

boot hinges $20

front seats - $50 each no tears but a couple of cigarette burns in driver's seat and the magazine holder in the driver's seat needs stiching at the bottom

rear seat

front windscreen wiper motor $40

front wiper arms $20 for both

HICAS computer $30

Washer bottle $20

steering column $40

alternator $10 (not sure of condition - i think a bit of battery acid spilt onto it or some crap, doesn't turn easily)

rear pods $70 pair

Stock manual ECU $80

hazards/tune/wiper switch (headlight switch already gone) $20 each

clutch+gearbox etc for manual conversion (still have flywheel)

passenger seat belt

interior mats

6 x injectors

Trim around the steering column

Turbo

Power Steering Rack

Stock coils

Ignitor

Driver's side door (just the door itself and window/motor mechanism)

Passenger side vent

Headlight switch

centre console tray holder thing

fuel pump cradle. Still have fuel pump

front seat buckles

ash tray

front fuse box fuses/relays/whatever

driver's side window control

diff

b/c pillars

locks/keys, brake master cylinder and 3 brake lines connecting to it.

Driver's side rear quarter window

inside passenger door mirror cover.

Boot lid

side skirts

Black metal intake pipe

Half shafts

fuel filler neck

fuel lines

Fuel flap

power steering pump

wheels/tyres

wheel jack

plastic knob cover for light switch

metal panel between boot and back seat

Metal trim around driver and passenger windows

Coolant temperature sensors

Speedo cable

window washer/wiper knob

alternator tension bracket

hubs/5 stud conversion

Driver's door power window relay

Accelerator pedal and cable

Brackets that attach the stereo in the centre console

bonnet support rod

Consult cable

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...