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Arp Main Studs Rb26

OMGGTR

By OMGGTR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

If you read that link from Eagle they say they do not use an off-the-shelf ARP fastener. I'd be going off the rod manufacturers specifications.

There are plenty of good machinists up here Dave, but it's simply not a job that just anyone with a line borer can do. The length of the block prohibits most people from doing an accurate job and even though it may look accurate, most of the time they are not. I have never encountered a block that needed line boring but I'm sure they exist.

I've seen some really nasty examples done by some well known engine shops. Girdle bolted down flat, tunnel was round but not straight on one side. I only picked it up because I use a straight edge every time. It was straight on the main length but not the horizontal, and only on one side. You couldn't see it by eye but the girdle would have walked around on the block and caused a myriad of other issues.

0.001 is a lot of tunnel distortion. Are you sure you don't mean 0.0001? We commonly see 0.0001-0.0003 (in extreme cases). Yes an open hole jig was used to determine stretch. We spent a considerable amount of time working out what worked and what didn't and what was acceptable and not.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Like I have said in his build thread, if it was tunnel bored, he will need to make sure the machine shop he used, used arp specs or there will be a hole heap of clearence issues.

That would be true if the bottom end wasn't already together

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