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Hey guys up for sale is my td06 has don't less then 30km only dyno time selling as a whole kit everything you need $1000 selling due to going to 25

Rb20 block still tight 120,000 on the motor $200

Rb20 head needs machining $100

Ask for any other parts message me 0449831518

Yeah mate everything you see in the photos. Turbo, wastegate, manifold and front pipe. Iv bought a new turbo so I no longer need this setup and don't want it sitting around going to waste

Ok I'm breaking it up

Turbo $700 Ono

Watsegate $200 Ono

Manifold $200 Ono

Front pipe $100 Ono

If your not happy with prices make me a offer will still sell as a kit for $950

Now also up for sale is a rb30 block needs a quick skim $150

A set of cp forged pistons for a rb30 one has dents on the bottom but still in perfect condition come with pins they need rings tho $600

x5 rb30 rods $80

Rb30 water pump $50

Rb30 oil pump $50

Edited by Bsa

td06 almost new $650 without lines

Rb20 block still tight 120,000 on the motor $100

Rb20 head needs machining $50

rb30 block needs a quick skim $50

A set of cp forged pistons for a rb30 one has dents on the bottom but still in perfect condition come with pins they need rings tho $500

x5 rb30 rods $50

Rb30 water pump $50

Rb30 oil pump $50

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  • Latest Posts

    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
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