Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey there,

Well, It seems some people have "doubts" :bs!: to my claim of 272rwkw, and would like to see the dyno sheet..

And about the ratings, YES the 2540 is stated at quite a low ps figure, as several members stated above... So As you Can Imagine I was quite suprised :( , I believe a lot of it comes down to tuning skill, you can have 50K of Mods under your bonnet, but unless it is configured properly, you are wasting your time/money

The guy who did the tuning, has built several tough cars (He has a 8sec beast) ,

Enough Yap :) , You got the Dyno Sheet???

I finally got it scanned in :rant: but The limit is quite small, about 100KB (The Original Hir Res pic was almost 300K)..., SO I had to Downsize it and whack the colour down, Its not too pretty, I can E-mail out a High Res one if anybody wants, but this should give you an idea...

Hi guys, it does the usual 2540 stuff, no boost to speak of until 3,000 rpm, then everything happens in 600 rpm. This is fairly representative for the large compressor on 2540's. Then they start to drop off (can't hold boost) over 5,000 rpm. This is representative of the small (compared to he compressor) turbine. They have this narrow zone from 3,600 rpm to 5,000 rpm where they work well, anything under that and they feel flat and over that the power drops off because of the exhaust restriction.

But 272 rwkw is a bit more than I have ever seen from a 2540R, HKS rate them at 360 ps plus 10% being for the usual HKS conservative rating = 400 ps or 300 kw. Less the usual 50 rwkw for transmission losses = 250 rwkw. That's about the best I have seen, from a 2540R at 1.3 bar on an RB25 running Optimax. Plus that RB25 was fully tuned, cams, porting, compression, split dump, Apexi FMIC etc.

Is there something missing from your car specs Mose? Like fuel? Compression ratio? Oversize pistons? Cams? Maybe a larger turbine inside the standard cover? I am perplexed as to why this one is a fair bit better than most.

Is there something missing from your car specs Mose? Like fuel? Compression ratio? Oversize pistons? Cams? Maybe a larger turbine inside the standard cover? I am perplexed as to why this one is a fair bit better than most.

As far as I am aware It is tuned on Optimax (He recommends octane booster for High Boost - 18psi) It suprised me as well.. although the dyno chart speaks for itself, you will notice that the turbo is running at its peak, It simply cant push anymore... I was initally concerned with this (ie - Are the extra kw's worth the extra strain, but HKS Turbos are built tough {not indestuctible though} and providing the turbo is allowed to cool down/warm up, it should be okay) Of course If I run high boost constantly, Im asking for trouble.. I rarely hit high boost (I rarely drive the car, as It is for sale and I am keeping the K's down)

your power figure does seem extraordinary as mentioned by sydneykid, but you have the dyno sheet: dyno dynamics dyno, and in shootout mode, which im led to believe makes it comparable to any other run done in the same mode.

great result! your turbo must have some special gizzards but :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...