Jump to content
SAU Community

Z32 Vs Q45

Josh...

By Josh...,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted (edited)

There are clones or dodgy ones out there. Mine wasn't.

I have used a Q45 with my powerfc for years. At 315rwkw it was no where near being maxed out. I was running a GT3076 at 18-22 psi. I'd say it had about 380 - 400rwkw in it.

The benefits are that it has a larger diameter which means less restriction.

My turbo had a 4inch inlet, and I didn't see the point of reducing to a z32 size, so I bought the Q45. Was very happy with the results.

its for sale if you want it. Car was parted out and it was running my RB25\30 before we took it apart. Has the Plug and all. Let me know if you are interested.

(Im a tuner too... so I did all the tuning etc and I can guarantee it worked 100%)

Edited by The Mafia
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384351-z32-vs-q45/#findComment-6131334
Share on other sites
Legionnaire Collaborator

Legionnaire

Posted
Posted

I know z32 is tried and true but the q45 is a 90mm ? Which are better ? I've heard z32 has more resolution even tho it's a smaller body ??

You sure you are not confusing resolution for maximum measurable airflow? Generally, the higher the max flow, the lower the resolution.

Being an AFM for 4+ litre V8 one should expect Q45 AFM to have poor resolution, particularly at low rpm, but this is not a big concern on a RB25.

As for which one is better - it depends on what turbo you're going to use. If it's something small, say, hypergear bolt-on proposition, then I'd say stick to Z32 AFM. If it's something big, and with 4" inlet, then you could really benefit from higher ID AFM, so Q45 is a good candidate. It also depends on who will do the tuning.

Mafia, what P/N does your AFM have, is it -61U01 or -61U00? 4-contact plug?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384351-z32-vs-q45/#findComment-6131453
Share on other sites
Josh... Contributor

Josh...

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Legion as you would know from my other many recent questions it is indeed a hyper gear turbo :-) it just seems that you can get the q45 for much less than the z32 and i know I won't max out a 32 with the hyper gear but I may upgrade turbos later...... Would there be any downfall to using the 45 now incase i upgrade later ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384351-z32-vs-q45/#findComment-6131485
Share on other sites
JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted

spend the extra $100 tops and get a brand new genuine z32. support more power and have a more linear voltage scale, which makes light load tuning and therefore economy better. if you making enough power for a 3" afm to be a restriction then your past the point of being able to use afm's anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384351-z32-vs-q45/#findComment-6132180
Share on other sites
Legionnaire Collaborator

Legionnaire

Posted
Posted

Brand new the cost is roughly the same for either one, and JonnoHR31, although I somewhat disagree with the last sentence in his post, makes a very good point about easier low load tuning and economy. The limit of the Z32 AFM is approx. 580 bhp, and its ID is rarely a major restriction, as it has been proven by lots of results in RB25 dyno thread.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384351-z32-vs-q45/#findComment-6132225
Share on other sites
Legionnaire Collaborator

Legionnaire

Posted
Posted

What AFM exactly do you have though, that's the question. These is another member here, his nick is Dangerman (or something like that), he had RB boosted by GT35 and mass flow measured with q45 AFM, he was quite happy with his AFM, but there was a bunch of other dudes who had no luck with Q45 and reported them to max out at roughly 270wkw.

So it would be nice to know if ther is a distingushing feature, an indication that would allow us to tell a higher reading AFM from an ordinary one.

Dangerman's was brand new, had a four pin plug and a P/N 22680-61U01. What's the P/N of yours?

Quick internet search informed me that there are Q45 afms, both with yellow sticker but with 2 slightly different P/N's, one's -61U00 and other is -61U01. The first one has 3 pin plug, the latter has four pins and that's the one Dangerman used. That makes me suspect that -61U01 may be the higher flowing AFM, and U00 is the "bad" one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384351-z32-vs-q45/#findComment-6132490
Share on other sites
R32Abuser Mentor

R32Abuser

Posted
Posted

IIRC I have the 3 Pin plug version of the Q45 AFM on my RB25/30 with a GT3076R.

Making 256 RWKW (some power issues up higher in the rev range) with no issues down low regarding "resolution".

I have been told by my tuner that I have plenty of AFM left to work with and we are FAR from maxing out this AFM.

Once I get my car back (today) I'll post my P/N as a reference.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384351-z32-vs-q45/#findComment-6132800
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...