Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

On the r33 climate control, when you turn the lights on, the display dims.

Thinking about it, this could be due to

1) circuit connected in series so display is experiencing a voltage drop because all the other lights are being powered

2) It deliberately dims, thus it must have a connection which tells it the lights are on

Does anybody know anything about this? Or how it works?

I want to keep it bright, even when the lights are on. If the reason is 2, then that should be an easy fix, if its 1, gonna be difficult

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384411-r33-climate-control/
Share on other sites

I have done this after I added a blue film to the display.

There is a wire that completes a circuit when the parkers are turned on.

I removed it from the connector block that plugs into the climate control unit.

The unit no longer dims when the lights are turned on.

ah fair enough

I need to do that to mine, I always thought it was brighter with the blue perspex. I guess it depends what tint you get

If you have a test light or multimeter handy should be easy to find the right wire. pull the plug out of the back of the climate control unit and test each wire with the light switch on and off.

If you dont have a multimeter then find one :P

Or maybe someone on here knows the answer/can test for you

Unplug climate control plug, put negative terminal of multimeter to chassis ground, probe the wires in the plug whlie turning the lights on and off

If you find a wire that has no power with lights off and power with lights on then that's your wire

Unplug climate control plug, put negative terminal of multimeter to chassis ground, probe the wires in the plug whlie turning the lights on and off

If you find a wire that has no power with lights off and power with lights on then that's your wire

thanks man

  • 4 months later...

Just a note to anyone that tries this.

Taking the wire out does indeed stop it from dimming, it was a red wire with a blue stripe on mine.

However, this wire also lights up the climate control buttons when you switch the lights on. Taking it out means no lights for your buttons.

Id changed the climate control button lights to blue too so was a bit lame not having them. Rectified this by making my own wiring loom that comes from the wire that i pulled out, and goes directly to the lights for the buttons. It was easy because the lights themselves are easy to access.

So now when i turn the lights on, the buttons light up, and the display doesnt dim :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...