Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, i have an 97 r33 Mspec series 2 gtst in white. I had a front on hit a few months back, they wrote off the car as a repairable write off because of the price of parts. I was going to fix the car and get it back on the road because it was in such good condition before the crash. I got the repairs done by a friend as it was just the radiator support that was the main damage, he ended up not doing a very good job and welded the rad support on not 100% straight so I'm not even going to bother taking it to VIV! i am just over it and want to get out of the import world. I would prefer to sell it as a whole car. Its in road worthy condition as i was going to take it for the VIV test. This is perfect for someone who wants a good track/drift car!

The car had done 93,000kms

After Market Parts

Apexi Power FC with hand controller and boost control kit

Apexi 3inch Turbo back exhaust

Excedy heavy duty button clutch (done about 70kms) just put in when was getting car ready for RWC

Custom made intake pipe

z32 AFM

Nismo 740cc injectors

Blitz Return Flow FMIC

Car was tuned by Trent at Chequered Tuning, made 198rwkw at 10psi.. was waiting on a water temp and o2 senor and clutch to go in to boost the car.. Which are all in now!

He said it would of pulled about 220rwkw

I'm located in Hallam, Victoria

I'm asking around 8k as it has a lot of good parts and is a clean car still, if i don't get the price I'm after ill be wrecking the car.

Rims in pictures DO NOT come with car, has standard r34 gt rims with road worthy tyres.

Contact me on 0433 467 819

post-57338-0-77381000-1322713493_thumb.jpg

post-57338-0-90191300-1322713515_thumb.jpg

post-57338-0-58333200-1322713672_thumb.jpg

post-57338-0-10026200-1322713699_thumb.jpg

post-57338-0-74093400-1322713758_thumb.jpg

hmm i dont think u will get 8k just my thought cause GTR's are going for that sorta cash

mate, you are dreaming, standard R33s go for 7-11g everyday of the week. this one has AFC mods, work done, might have been crashed so maybe a bit high, but NO GTR is under 12-15k unless defected or wreck...

pretty sure i spoke to this guy and he would sell it at 8500 so??? no im not wrong and remeber its a track car not road mickey

Edited by navanskyline

Thats my gtr on ebay starting at 8500. Also on here. Selling these days is hard! Good luck mate. I think u should get 6ish

I have been tryn to sell the above gtr for some time no not much interested bit strange will get it tuned and it should sell easier or keep it. Sorry to jusp on ur post mate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...