Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you will NOT be dissapointed in the fronius brad, i use one at work a bit, magic machine, just watch the drop off after the initial arc, you can tune it out but some people have trouble getting used to it. Did you get a water-cooled station?

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey Brad,

Still no sign of my catch can yet, do you know when you actually sent it out? By my count it is a bit over three weeks ago now? Starting to worry it has been lost in transit.

Catch can pm sent. Will track it down tonight.

Matt shoot me an email about your order. Wont get me on the phone for the next couple of weeks. I believe it has been sent will confirm and reply to your email with the postage details.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Brad,

Honestly mate, I'm starting to get a bit tired of this. It's been 2 and a half months since you said you were going to post my catch can out. You did me a big favour by modifying it for me when you are so busy, and I appreciate that, but 2 months just to post something is getting a bit ridiculous. The lack of communication is getting tiresome, I've tried calling you as you asked but if the time difference means I can't call you when it suits you then that isn't going to work.

Please let me know what is going on mate.

Martin.

Nick I believe you should well and truely have received the head by now??

Martin could you check your email?

Guys I'm rarely on Sau anymore and hardly reply to any pm due to massive time constraints and the shear amount of them I get which are time wasters

Email me with any queries and a reply is never far away.

Also why I am here I'll put this link up

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/403292-extension-of-buyer-beware/page__pid__6416315#entry6416315

I've seriously had nothing but trouble from this BSA customs crap and I'm over it.

I've tried to help out people who've been ripped of by him. I myself have lost considerable sums of money and not to mention time that I've spent chasing up problems left behind.

The guys who have emailed me demanding I fix the mess he's left I'm sorry but I won't Be doing that.

There is a full police report and fraud investigation that I'm happy to give you the details for so even they can confirm I'm not the

one who's ripping you off.

Thanks for that Brad, I appreciate it.

For anyone reading this and is worried by my previous post, Brad has explained what happened with my catch can and unfortunately the issue was caused by BSA and was out of his control. I'm satisfied that the issue was no fault of Brad's or Pro Fabrications, and I will continue to recommend their work to anyone who wants the very best in custom fabrication.

Did you get my second email brad? Just after some more info on the dry sump kit.

Also wondering about the rb25 dry sumps as my intentions are to fit to an rb26. Do you have a solution for the bottom gearbox brackets (probably get away without installing them but....)

Thanks mate,

Dean.

I did receive it dean but havent had the chance to reply as yet.

I always rather use an alloy sump for a couple of reasons.

-Alloy pans form a more structural part of the engine block than a pressed steel pan.

-I rather work with alloy than steel

-the alloy pan has the gearbox bolt section

You can use the gearbox lower sections from an rb25 from memory.

The rb25/20 brackets that bolt to the block don't work as there is no mounting provision on the 26 block... How much extra would an rb26 dry sump cost if you source the pan too? I don't have one. (one of the main issues is that the sump cannot protrude any lower then an rb25 pan where it passes the crossmember as the standard 25 one sits about 2mm away from the member...

Maybe the other style drysump would be better in my situation with the trench straight through the middle and flushed where the x member sits..?

Thanks.

In your case where space is critical I'd be doing the following.

Watercut a 12mm flange plate from 6000 series alloy.

Fabricate an entirely new sump pan that is only a couple of mm deeper than the crank girdle.

Use a center trench with a rounded out section for the x member and steering rack.

To do the sump it would make life easier to have your engine mounts so the dumby block I use can be bolted into the x member jig. That way there is no guessing if the sump will fit it's azure thing when you go to install it.

my engine mounts are 40-45mm high on an r33 x member i think. Then the engine sits about15mm further back then standard. No problems at the front as the swaybar pretty much bends around the entire engine....

When the power steering rack is fitted (didn't have any pictures) there is only maybe 5mm of room between the top and the sump. , The powersteering rack also sits closer to the x- member so i gain a little more room behind there if needed too?

Would the custom pan incorporate the gearbox mounts also?

Thanks mate.

post-41232-0-61573600-1342508350_thumb.jpg

post-41232-0-38743100-1342508380_thumb.jpg

Edited by GT-RZ

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...