Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What sort of tyre longevity do you guys get out of your tyres? I have been getting terrible wear on both front and rear on the inner side of the tyres? I know this is camber related which I fixed with a correction kit to get it from -2.2 or so down to -0.6 so at least the rear started to wear evenly. My tyres have barely done 10k and I got wire poking through the inner side on the fronts. The chamber kit for the front is on the way. I have stock suspension and I'm assuming a reasonable amount of negative camber is the factory setting? Am I wrong?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385445-tyre-longevity-on-r34-gtr/
Share on other sites

Stock suspension is doing that to your tyres?!

What tyres?

What type of driving?

Wheel alignment settings?

My fronts are not too bad, the rear of mine was fairly bad even though mine is at vspec height. I found out the wheel alignment place was too lazy to adjust the factory rear camber bolts to the most positive setting, as you have to remove the diffuser....

I tend to drive pretty hard into, through corners and don't do much if any launching (that will wear the inside of the tyres quickly). I still want to put in camber bush sets in the back at some point though, especially if I go a little lower. Some wear comes down to driving style, tyre hardness, tyre pressure, wheel alignment etc.

My tires have lasted me so far about 18,000km, still has at least 40% meat left, my tires are:

Size: 275/30/19

Brand: Kumho KU19

Tread wear rating: 300 (hard compound)

plus i rotate at every oil change and pump up my tires (40psi) every fortnight. My wheel alignment specs is the factory settings.

I drive like a granny so i guess that's why it has lasted so long.

So to get more life out of your tires maybe try:

- wheel alignment

- check tire pressure

- drive like a granny

- get tires with a higher tread wear rating

My 34 GTR has stock suspension, tyres are currently at around 19,000Kms Daily driven.

Size: 245/45/18

Brand: Kumho KU36

Treadwear: 180

Even wear, Only rotated at 10,000Kms. Kept at 38Psi

About 20% tread left.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...