Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

this might be some coincidence but i got a wheel alignment done today and my front toe was completely out of whack, fixed it up and the brake squeel is gone??!!!

i am amazed by this, got rid of the annoying squeel and the car is handling better then ever!

either toe or castor will do this .... if your old castor rods are worn under braking they will move forward slighly and increase the squeeling noise.... i have DBA 4000s and bendix ultimates and had this issue... i while aligned it, put the red goo on and filed the edges of the pads down slightly, i then Bleed the front calipers! and its gone!! however it has come back every so slightly as my front right caster is rooted and moving forward a bit so check those out before going crazy with goo and new pads etc....... i know the skylines castor rods a prone to failing after a few years or hard driving ;)

wow the quietness was short lived, its back now,

perhaps the pad and/or rotor is glazed causing it to squeel again, might consider machining the rotor slightly and rubbing some layer off the pad and add some more goo and try again.

  • 1 year later...

Hey guys,

I trawled the net looking for solutions to my brake squeal. I found this thread, used some ideas from it as well as others - the solution I have worked 100% - I have now had zero squeal for close to 8 weeks, washed the rims, rain, brake dust, everything - all been perfect. The reason I was so determined to get rid of it was I am using the skyline as a daily now and sitting in crawling traffic everyday was disgusting.

Car: R33 GTS4 with GTST calipers and slotted rotors that got machined when putting in the new pads

Pads: New QFM HPX, no shims

Squeal: ONLY the front driver's side - loud as f*ck under low speed braking, otherwise everything was silent.

Solution:

1. Cleaned all the grooves of the slotted rotors as they were really built up

2. Ruffed up the pad face to bed it in again using a wire brush

3. Used a cheapo no name brake cleaner and sand paper to clean up all brake parts including the locking pins that hold calipers in and this funny looking thing: post-36975-0-63760800-1366934611_thumb.jpg (NOT the pistons or rubbers boots around them though)

4. I wanted to ensure this metal piece was in the correct shape so I took off the other one from the front passenger's wheel and noticed it was bent a little bit out of whack so bent it back.

5. When I first got my car serviced years and years ago someone must have used that disgusting red brake goo on my caliper's and it was all tacky and black on the pistons and boots, I sat there for a good 30 mins picking it off everywhere until it was all gone and gave the pistons a very light dry sand just to get back to metal.

5. I happened to have a spare front caliper in my garage that had an original set of shims - I took them off, gave them a massive sanding until they were spotless: post-36975-0-25699400-1366936011_thumb.jpg

6. I then got a tub of Penrite copper eze http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=15&id_products=108 post-36975-0-58950900-1366937764_thumb.jpg and applied a thick, even layer to the pistons, locking pins, shims and the back of the pads

7. Reassembled everything back together and bedded in the front brake pads again, it's been perfect ever since.

Hope this helps others.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not a problem at all Lithium, I appreciate your help regardless. I've pulled a small part of a log where the target pressure was 28psi and it spiked to 36.4psi. I've only just begun using Data Log Viewer so if I'm sending this in the wrong format let me know.
    • Sorry had a bit of a week and haven't had heaps of time to follow this, so apologies if I've missed something - any chance of showing a log with the rpm, turbo speed, MAP, and wgdc all in one view? Definitely an "interesting" problem, and while it's definitely worth noting that there was a similar issue with the twins I'd not completely put all bets on the root cause being the same thing.  Keep an open mind, follow the data.
    • I built this engine approximately 12 years ago so my own head (brain) is a little grey on the exact hardware in the RB head, however what I recall is. Stock RB25 NEO TURBO Intake Camshaft HKS 260 degree Exhaust Camshaft (R34 GTR) RB25 NEO Turbo Springs  I ported/removed the exhaust stud humps found in the RB25 head so theres less turbulence but it wasn't ported/polished properly, just a hump removal. I've attached two pictures of the before and after to illustrate.     The ECU gets its boost reference from the nipple on the rear of the head on the intake side, behind the fuel rail. The wastegate gets its boost reference from a nipple on the cooler pipe immediately after the comp cover.  Could a decent pressure drop across the intercooler cause the wastegate to be seeing a higher PSI than what the ECU is seeing, and thus it can't control it accurately and quick enough?   We ran a line to the actuator and watched it open and close using an air compressor, while we didn't have a gauge on the line to see when it was cracking open, it was opening smoothly.  I just removed the gate now and even though the documentation says you need to open it in a vice due to preload (which I did), there wasn't any preload on the cap, which is something we noticed straight out of the box as well when new. This silver cap internally is threaded to the actuator rod that runs out the bottom of the straightgate. Not sure how I'm supposed to get this spring out to be frank.. Potentially but everyone else doesn't appear to have to stop at 500kw because of 6boosts design.  I would, but I think I'm getting to that point where if I'm going to do the head and make another 100kw, then I'm going to need a fancy gearbox and quite a few other things and 10k becomes 20k becomes 30k within a few months. I'm not necessarily sold on the idea just yet that the head is restrictive at 4000rpm (and what.. 300kw?) and yet doesn't seem to be restrictive at 7000rpm when it's making 500kw, however I'm obviously not closing the door on that theory.
    • Yeah - Half the problem is I know this sensor actually goes to 150C.. I'm pretty certain it is min of 11C. So still more data required I suppose. It's really quite hard to get the oil temp to 100+ then immediately pull over and take a reading before the temp drops. Annoyingly I suppose the range I really 'want' is likely 80 -> 120C. TBH the ecu can't really *do* anything with it, and the gauge itself is very visible... ...but you know how it is.
    • My EFR 8474 Black, made 800awhp on a roller dyno. at 25-26psi. E85. Shaft speed was around 106,000rpm 1.01 rear. The rear is maxed.  6 boost Turbosmart 60mm gate 3.5inch exhaust  Head is worked to the shithouse. Bain racing. VCam. 272 exhaust. RB28 - RB26 foundation.  You have an intake issue. Start getting proper data and I mean go back to the simple things.  - Pressure test your intake - Block off the Turbo BOV, you don't need it.  - Test pressure before and after your intercooler If your head is pretty stock, that is your issue. Especially if it is NA.  Take it off and spend $10k on it. 
×
×
  • Create New...