Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

any1 done this? not jus a lock bar i mean remove all the crap out of the engine bay etc. car is located in dianella if someone wants to help will offer cash or beers for helping. engine is not in car btw

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385958-anyone-removed-hicas-in-a-r32/
Share on other sites

Super hicas or hicas?

Ah just rip everything out? Including the solenoid. Make sure you leave the little box under your parcel shelf.

Undo the tie rods from the current bar, they are a reverse thread so hold one side etc. if all else fails, remove one tie rod then rip out the bar with The other tie rod still attached and go buy one from kyp

Edited by Char

its a gtr so does that mean its super hicas?

its already got a tomei lock kit installed i just really wanna get the solenoid etc out the engine bay while the engines out. would i best off to get a lockbar, removing everything then selling the tomei locker kit?

its a gtr so does that mean its super hicas?

its already got a tomei lock kit installed i just really wanna get the solenoid etc out the engine bay while the engines out. would i best off to get a lockbar, removing everything then selling the tomei locker kit?

Yes :thumbsup:

Rick, its spelt Volkswagen! You know you want it!

08 golf James.

Like i said sometimes it will take a few min of blowing hot air before it cools and most times its cold as soon as i hit the button. The compresser and a solenoid are known for stuffing up but generaly once they do it just goes to a mild cool. I'm guessing mine is either on the way out or has a leak (i hope)

For you car ill need about .5 meter of p/s hose and 2 clamps, 1/2in i think.

  • 2 weeks later...

Have done this mod numerous of times. Best way to go about it is to remove the power steering pump. Remove the rear cover off it (rear sections is the hydyaulic system for the HICAS). Here you will see a round object with little metal inserts slotted into it. These rectangular peices of metal are the vanes of the HICAS pump. Removing these inserts will stop fluid flow through the hicas system. Then you can block of the hole which feeds the HICAS lines, and remove all of the HICAS componants. You should have a loop at the front of the vehicle which can be removed, a solenoid on the front right of the engine, lines that go to the back and another solenoid at the back. If you want pics let me know!

that or you run the rear section into a cooler. 1/2 a meter of hose and 2 clamps get it done.

Sorry Jimmy have been flat out (dam floors) and forgot to call you will have to book a weekend with you to get this done.

yep ive been flat out too bud.

about your car, its a fairly late model do u know if it has a variable load compressor on it or is it the common type which uses a clutch. (if it constantly clicks in and out then its not a variable compressor)

also how many km's has it done? have u talked to the dealership to see if its maybe a common problem?

coz if its intermittent then i doubt its gonna be a gas issue, its probably gonna be something electronic like a module, which without the proper diagnostic equipment is farking hard to diagnose!

Its an 08 and i would assume the vaiable type (top of the line model with climet control).

There is a common fault but its not intermittent. Car is out of warranty however im getting it serviced soon so ill get them to run a diagnostic test on it. I think it a sensor that is tripping out when the car sits in the sun all day (getting hot inside) to give a faulse reading. No stress was just hopeing it would be gas as thats an easy (and cheaper) fix.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around with a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
    • It ended up being that orientation of the float hub in relation to the clutch disk, when I installed it, I heard a loud click and being stupid, I decided to not take it a part and check it. The hub didn't properly align with the clutch disk and was causing the issue. Definitely an odd one! Dahtone Racing was able to fix me right up, stand up blokes!      
    • Right, but I'm saying on the stock ECU measured airmass from the MAF is no higher than stock. So it's accounting for the higher flow rate iso-manifold pressure. You just have to keep turning down the boost until you're within the stock tune's load scale. If you run off the end there's no telling what will happen. This does mean there's zero benefit to the turbos you're running vs stock, if anything it's just a straight downgrade because the transient response is worse, you don't even get the ECU's boost solenoid helping to pull the wastegate closed during initial spool, and peak power is only whatever the factory map can give you before you hit the R&R corner. On a -9 I would bet that you would have to change out the wastegate spring once you have a real ECU and you're tuning it for real. I'm not saying this is a remotely ideal state of affairs, it's just a way to keep it driveable until you can get a proper tune done.
×
×
  • Create New...