Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1) power spirit KLS450PS turbo , .63 rear , . 58 front - $1200 , used for afew drives maybe 100km on it

2) brand new JECS 650cc injectors - $420

3)brand new 52mm alloy radiator , unsure on brand - $250

4)brand new walbro gss342 fuel pump _ $150

5)JECS Z32 AFM with plug , used but in good condition fully working - $200

6)Haltech e11v2 , fully working , good condition , most secsors except map sensor , no software cd but all wiring included - $800

7)g spec type rz bov with rb20/25 adaptor , same amount of use as the turbo good condition - $150

located on the central coast NSW

all came out of my series 2 r33

for pics or more info call or sms me on 0431 121 625

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/386190-fs-performance-parts/
Share on other sites

bump , price drops

1) power spirit KLS450PS turbo , .63 rear , . 58 front - $1000 , used for afew drives maybe 100km on it

2) brand new JECS 650cc injectors - $400

3)brand new 52mm alloy radiator , unsure on brand - $200

4)brand new walbro gss342 fuel pump _ $130

5)JECS Z32 AFM with plug , used but in good condition fully working - $180

6)Haltech e11v2 , fully working , good condition , most secsors except map sensor , no software cd but all wiring included - $750

7)g spec type rz bov with rb20/25 adaptor , same amount of use as the turbo good condition - $120

  • 2 weeks later...

boostoff i dont know , its about $80aud for express air mail to california with tracking number or $40 normail air mail with tracking number .

midnight r33 - its not greddy.

bump , price drops

1) power spirit KLS450PS turbo , .63 rear , . 58 front - $900 , used for afew drives maybe 100km on it

2) brand new JECS 650cc injectors - $380

3)brand new 52mm alloy radiator , unsure on brand - $180

4)brand new walbro gss342 fuel pump _ $120

5)JECS Z32 AFM with plug , used but in good condition fully working - $160

6)Haltech e11v2 , fully working , good condition , most secsors except map sensor , no software cd but all wiring included - SOLD ( pending payment )

7)g spec type rz bov with rb20/25 adaptor , same amount of use as the turbo good condition - $80

8) apexi avcr , good condition , solenoid and all wiring included - $400

hey mate il take the walbro fuel pump for 120! will suit an r33 gtst s2? pm me or text 0427265840

bump , price drops

1) power spirit KLS450PS turbo , .63 rear , . 58 front - $900 , used for afew drives maybe 100km on it

2) brand new JECS 650cc injectors - $380

3)brand new 52mm alloy radiator , unsure on brand - $180

4)brand new walbro gss342 fuel pump _ $120

5)JECS Z32 AFM with plug , used but in good condition fully working - $160

6)Haltech e11v2 , fully working , good condition , most secsors except map sensor , no software cd but all wiring included - SOLD ( pending payment )

7)g spec type rz bov with rb20/25 adaptor , same amount of use as the turbo good condition - $80

8) apexi avcr , good condition , solenoid and all wiring included - $400

  • 2 weeks later...

for some reason pm doesnt work , you'll need to reach me on my mobile.

edit: i think ive fixed my pm now , so give it a go if it doesnt work still my mobile number is up the top.

Edited by d_soljah

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Keeping in mind that I am currently getting flat 10 L/100km on my RB25DET, which means >>500km/tank. I would test this car for vacuum leaks, check codes and AFM signal with NissDataScan as D says, check plugs, do a compression check while they are out.
    • It is hard to be specific half way across the world...but it *seems* like it might have a minor issue. Is the idle stable and does it rev smoothly? I would not expect any pops out of what I am assuming is a standard ECU, standard tune, standard exhaust. You can use Nissan Data Scan to find out exactly what is happening when it runs, the cable/software is reasonably affordable if you are not planning on changing the ECU (which hopefully you are not with an NA skyline) BTW your mileage may not be that far off, these are heavy old tech cars, and being NA might mean you use a heavy foot to keep up with traffic....
    • Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
×
×
  • Create New...