Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I hope for the best aswell, so far no mods stock with an exhaust . The car is 1993 and only done 117,000km's first owner since imported from Japan by DownUnder and I rarely give it kick.

So pray for the best and I hope I don't need do a rebuilt! I'll ask them to do compression test tomorrow at KYP.

Cheers for the help mate.

Pray it's the coil pack loom

You've replaced coilpacks. ignitor, plugs and cleaned your AFM. ECU is very unlikely but it is possible.

If it's not the loom ask your local garage to do a compression test. It will give you a very clear indication if you have done a main bearing.

Your mechanic is most likely able to tell you even without a compression test.

What year model is your 32 GTR and what if any work has been done to your RB26 ?

Not been running rich at all, using the same ones the NGK Laser Platinum that came out of the car. The coils should come today I hope! Got some yellow jacket coils. How do you fix the gap if there is one in the spark plugs?

Cheer guys!

How do you know the car isn't running rich if you can't even open an airbox or "fix" the gap on a plug?

Because i had a mate check it out and if you read before I have done it all to the littlest thing. But still happening, so I'm getting it towed down to a garage and getting tested and finding the error.

How do you know the car isn't running rich if you can't even open an airbox or "fix" the gap on a plug?

As per my other post -

Make certain you have checked the coilpack loom. (swap with someone else)

You have so far checked

Plugs - (gapped at 0.8mm, new cheap copper ones are good)

Coilpacks

Ignitor

AFM

ECU (unlikely)

Next is

Coilpack loom

Compression test

Somebody else said it - one of your cylinders isnt firing.

Taking to check the following things today:

Coilpack loom and

If not that than a compression test

Also is it common for the RB26 main bearings to GO?

If the main bearings goes, my car going be sitting there for months! :(

As per my other post -

Make certain you have checked the coilpack loom. (swap with someone else)

You have so far checked

Plugs - (gapped at 0.8mm, new cheap copper ones are good)

Coilpacks

Ignitor

AFM

ECU (unlikely)

Next is

Coilpack loom

Compression test

Somebody else said it - one of your cylinders isnt firing.

did you localise it to a certain cylinder using the method i told you to?Its really not rocket science man....let it idle pull each coil connector off until you find the one that doesnt make the car misfire anymore than it already does and there is your culprit......you need to pin point the cylinder thats misbehaving first then we can give you an indication on what to check next

Main bearings dont have anything to do with misfiring on one cylinder.......i assume you mean the rod end bearings,if so then you would know about it if its done a rod end bearing.....it would be knocking its tits off....

I have followed the steps you told me to do and I did that before I installed the new yellow jackets in. However after putting the new yellow jacket coils in the car its still doing the same thing. So i towed the car to a garage to find an error. They will tell me the results tomorrow morning and i asked them if they could tell me if the main bearing has gone, but from indications of the engine he said no (thank god!!). Maybe when i was pulling the looms around to move the cover i might of damaged the wires inside and resulting in failing to work again. Btw the cylinder that wasn't working was the third one from the front of the engine.

Cheers

did you localise it to a certain cylinder using the method i told you to?Its really not rocket science man....let it idle pull each coil connector off until you find the one that doesnt make the car misfire anymore than it already does and there is your culprit......you need to pin point the cylinder thats misbehaving first then we can give you an indication on what to check next

Ok, getting my car back today and they have found what went wrong. All the steps I took changing coil, sparks and etc, might of triggered the ECU to stuff up. They found that the ECU was playing up and not sending signals to the cylinder. So the most unlikely chance of it being the ECU was the one. What a run around I tell you, just so happy it was fixed and over YAY!! :)

Cheers for all your help guys, wouldn't know what to you without everyones help!

Amon

Yep, a simple ECU restart did the trick. He said it could of happened when you restarted the ECU by taking the neutral out, putting the lights on to drain the power and reconnect it back and causing a spark making the ECU to malfunction.

What did they do to fix it?

Does this mean a simple ECU reset may have fixed the problem?

Cheers mate, yep it feels awesome to have the beauty back on the road. Also I 4got to add the mechanic said when he pluged his computer to scan the car, the car didn't come up with the O2 sensor registered but after restarting the ECU it was there. Should I may as well replace the O2 sensor?

Once again thank to everyone who has helped me :thumbsup:

Congrats :thumbsup: must be a good feeling.

It's not something I would have bet on as being the issue. Pleased to hear the good news.

SargeRX8 was on the ball though

i have same problem dont drive it around untill you change your catalytic converter, if you want to drive it around take it off and hollow it out or else if you drive it and boot it you will put strien on your engine as i was doing untill i hollowed mien out and when i check it it was completely blocked so i had to take the honeycomb stuff out of it untill i bought my new one which came in today and installed in satourday hopefully it all goes well, hope this solves yours but defiantly sounds same problem as mine, when driving it struggles when accelerating and some smoke comes out when booting. you notice loss of power too. if it is the cat i bought a bolt on high flow 3" from justjap its called catco. so check your catalytic converter.

I'll have a look into it mate cheers, car running fine now and at boost I don't feel no loss in power. I'm getting custom exhaust system in couple of months so I won't worry so much yet.

Cheers

Amon

i have same problem dont drive it around untill you change your catalytic converter, if you want to drive it around take it off and hollow it out or else if you drive it and boot it you will put strien on your engine as i was doing untill i hollowed mien out and when i check it it was completely blocked so i had to take the honeycomb stuff out of it untill i bought my new one which came in today and installed in satourday hopefully it all goes well, hope this solves yours but defiantly sounds same problem as mine, when driving it struggles when accelerating and some smoke comes out when booting. you notice loss of power too. if it is the cat i bought a bolt on high flow 3" from justjap its called catco. so check your catalytic converter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 9" wheels are a little too wide for a RWD 32. They can fit. People have put R33 GTR wheels on 32s for years and years. But they are a very tight squeeze. This has been known for about 30 years. As I said - there is no difference between a 17 and an 18 in terms of what will fit. The rolling diameter needs to stay about the same as stock - not very much larger. If you increase that, you will start to have problems. If you increae rolling diamater at the same time as yo increase width, you will have problems earlier. as 9" wheels are pushing the boundaries already, you would need to be careful with tyre choice. I would put 8.5s on the front of mine, but would expect problems with 9s.
    • post up screen shots of your injector tables
    • Diagnostic flow for a code 21 says check signal at the ECU pins, on a voltmeter of some kind it should read 0.1V at idle, 0.12V cranking, 0.15-0.25V at 2000 rpm. Check each coil such that +1, -3 is infinite or very high resistance, -3, +2 should do the same. (-1, +3), (+3, -2), (+1, -2), and (-1, +2) should all be somewhere between 0 ohms and high resistance. If you trace the path from the coil pin all the way back to the ECU in the diagram the resistance you measure at the coil vs connected to the harness should be pretty much the same. 
    • I have an elite 2500 running an adapter harness on an rb25de neo r34. I took the butterfly out and removed all that junk. But I also went Plus+t at the same time. The butterfly thing works in reverse to the boost solenoid on the Gtt if that makes sense
    • yeh they are 235/45/17 up front and 255/40/17 in the rears. I still didn't get my answer if i can fit a 18x9 up front. I want to get 4 of this and see if they will fit before committing as they didn't see an 18x8 as an option but there is a 18x9.5 also.   Enkei RS05-RR 18x9 35mm ET 5x114.3 75.0 Bore Matte Gunmetal Wheel
×
×
  • Create New...