Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

I'm about to finish the single turbo conversion on my R33 GTR motor, but not sure what to do with the two O2 sensors?

When going single do you splice all wires into one sensor?

Also what about MAF's? I picked up a PFC D-Jetro, and previous owner used two MAP's? I still need to pick up a MAP harness from Apexi but i'm curious does the harness plug into MAF wiring or gets spliced at another location?

Many tks!

Do you really need them?

A good tuner will be able to tune better than any effect the O2 sensors would have.

I've had them disabled on all cars/set-ups for the past 7 years.

the powerfc faq has a specific section on the djetro install, i suggest you check that out

from memory the djetro map sensor input wires run to the same afm input wires on the loom

but the map sensors steal power from the boost control kit port (from memory)

the powerfc faq in my sig has a link to a pdf which shows the diagram with the kit installed etc

the powerfc does an average from the sensors

so for map sensors you really should run two as apexi intended, installed in the corrrect location

dont guess, dont pick a random spot, read the install guide and follow it to spec

the 02 sensors again pfc uses an average and you really should run two as intended

either run two in the dump pipe of the single, or if thats too much ass (it sounds like a lot of ass)

then run one 02 sensor and parrallel up the signal wire and make sure under ETC, SENSOR 02 CHECK you have 02-1 and 02-2 with a working value

and if you insist on no 02 feedback then make sure you disable it under ETC, FUNCTION SELECT

I guess I wouldn't need, them there is nothing legal about this car so eliminating them I have no objections.

However, I was curious what is the most common method here being used? Do most people just splice one O2 into the other allowing them to use just one sensor?

I just bought a splitter harness for Apexi D-Jetro which plugs into maps it seems all plug and play no additional questions there :-)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...