Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

I'm about to finish the single turbo conversion on my R33 GTR motor, but not sure what to do with the two O2 sensors?

When going single do you splice all wires into one sensor?

Also what about MAF's? I picked up a PFC D-Jetro, and previous owner used two MAP's? I still need to pick up a MAP harness from Apexi but i'm curious does the harness plug into MAF wiring or gets spliced at another location?

Many tks!

Do you really need them?

A good tuner will be able to tune better than any effect the O2 sensors would have.

I've had them disabled on all cars/set-ups for the past 7 years.

the powerfc faq has a specific section on the djetro install, i suggest you check that out

from memory the djetro map sensor input wires run to the same afm input wires on the loom

but the map sensors steal power from the boost control kit port (from memory)

the powerfc faq in my sig has a link to a pdf which shows the diagram with the kit installed etc

the powerfc does an average from the sensors

so for map sensors you really should run two as apexi intended, installed in the corrrect location

dont guess, dont pick a random spot, read the install guide and follow it to spec

the 02 sensors again pfc uses an average and you really should run two as intended

either run two in the dump pipe of the single, or if thats too much ass (it sounds like a lot of ass)

then run one 02 sensor and parrallel up the signal wire and make sure under ETC, SENSOR 02 CHECK you have 02-1 and 02-2 with a working value

and if you insist on no 02 feedback then make sure you disable it under ETC, FUNCTION SELECT

I guess I wouldn't need, them there is nothing legal about this car so eliminating them I have no objections.

However, I was curious what is the most common method here being used? Do most people just splice one O2 into the other allowing them to use just one sensor?

I just bought a splitter harness for Apexi D-Jetro which plugs into maps it seems all plug and play no additional questions there :-)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...