Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm currently experiencing some issues with my R33 GTR V-Spec.

I will try to explain as best I can the issues I'm having and I apologise for the size of this post. Please only post constructive comments.

The Problem:

I keep getting the air bag LED and ABS LED in the dash coming on after about 15 minutes of driving. (Air Bag LED constantly flashes, ABS LED is solid) They only light up when the car is in gear, and turn off when in neutral position. This is regardless of what speed I'm doing. So it seems to be related to the driveline being in motion. This doesn't bother me too much, but what does bother me is the burning smell that follows coming from the boot region. The cabin of the car fills with a chocking smell, making it hard to breath. I don't believe this is an electrical smell. It is an indescribable smell, possibly an oil burning.

2nd Problem:

HICAS system. I have just installed a nismo dash and found that someone had removed the HICAS warning lamp from the original dash cluster. So on the nismo unit the HICAS LED is on at all times. I have done no further diagnosis on this. (Could be related, could be seperate issue.)

Background:

I have owned this car for 5 months, and believe it is a very stock unit, with the only modification being an exhaust . I attended a skidpan day, where I removed the front drive shaft and drove reasonably hard. The Monday after this event my GRID dash dancer (Electronic torque split controller) arrived from Japan and was installed, by RevZone. When I first drove the car after the initial install, The Active LSD and 4WD light in the dash came on. I drove the car at 10km down the street and it felt like the hand brake was on. (the car didn't want to move) I turned the car off and on again and the lights were gone. This has not happened since.

I have found the GRID unit diagram translated into English, and re-connected (soldered) the wiring myself. I have also removed the dash dancer from the vehicle and found that the problem didn't disappear, but only happened twice in two following weeks of driving. So the problem is reduced when the GRID Dash Dancer is removed, but it's not the source of the problem. The Dash Dancer it's self appears to be working in normal (disabled/ off) and rear wheel drive mode, but 50/50 split isn't working.

I have had another mechanic check and bleed my hydraulic lines, in case there was any problem there.

I have purchased and installed redline oils for both front/ rear LSD's, Gearbox and Transfer Case. When removing the oil from the transfer case I found a spring loaded washer stuck to the sump magnet. (May or may not be related)

Any help would be most appreciated. Especially from someone with similar issues.

Any recomendations on mechanics that would know about driveline problems in GTR?

Thanks, Chris. (Scotsman)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38680-r33-gtr-driveline-issues/
Share on other sites

Nah I don't think the smell I'm getting is brakes. It fills the cabin only and cant be smelt from outside the vehicle (I know what burning brakes smell like) The smell originates from the inside the boot.

leaking hydraulic fluid onto something hot like the exhaust and you can smell the fluid burning on exhaust from inside the cabin/boot area? that would also somewhat expain your hicas /abs lights coming as the system is leaking fluid and could be malfunctioing?

park it on some clean concrete or road and fang up and down a bit, any drips etc??

sorry if this doesn't help, just picking stuff out of mid air

there was another thread where someone had changed the steering in a gtr without the proper hicas boss kit and after 15 minutes or 10 minutes the hicas system would think there is a malfunction and bring on the warning light cos it could not sense the steering motion.

maybe search and see if there's a match somewhere there

I second the motion for a problem caused by after market steering wheel fitment. If you have one and the incorrect boss kit is fitted it will cause problems. Your HICAS light will come on due to sensor confusion in the steering column. It causes the hicas to shutdown and the fault light comes on. Pretty hard to see if it is or isn't working on the street... (being sensible of course.. eh eh)

Further, if your lights seem to come on intermittently try doing this: turn on everything you can and load up the electrical system and see what happens. Air con/ demissters stereo lights the works.

I've seen instances (on an r33 vspec) where due to a grounding problem the 4wd system will drop out when the electrical system is heavily loaded. When put on the r32 consult computer at Nissan it pointed toward the TPS having a fault but it ended up being a grounding issue.

If you've ever had an engine out or you suspect that its been out it might be worth checking to make sure there's no problems with grounding.

Remember the wiring harness is almost twice as thick as an r32 for a number of reasons so using the Nissan R32 consult computer system test will only check about half or so of the circuits. Its not the gospel test but it is very useful to help troubleshoot problems.

It sounds to me like you have a few seperate problems that are causing confusion.

Good luck with it.

Sebaz

2nd Problem:

 

HICAS system.  I have just installed a nismo dash and found that someone had removed the HICAS warning lamp from the original dash cluster.  So on the nismo unit the HICAS LED is on at all times.  I have done no further diagnosis on this. (Could be related, could be seperate issue.)

Background:

 

Thanks, Chris. (Scotsman)

Chris I put a Nismo cluster in my car today and have also found the same thing as you. Please let me know if you have yours fixed as yet coz that light is already giving me the shits after 10 mins

Regards Alan

Maybe someone has removed or played around with the HICAS unit and havn't put it back together again properly.

I would doudt that you would have a stock car, it may have come to you seeming stock, but it doesn't mean the owner before you hasn't done anything.

I've read/know some people that do up their cars and when they sell them they rip out all the parts and put all the old parts back in and then sell the car.

HICAS switched on after thrashing the shit out of it... and only when i thrashed it for about 10 minutes straight.. not letting it rest.. i took it to JSV for a service and the next thing i noticed it never appeard again.. just call them up and ask to speak to julian.. hes a good bloke ..

let me know how you go with the grid danser.. i don't feel comfortable leaving mine on 50/50 either, it feels like the drivetrain is twisting.. 0/100 seems to work well enough though (apart from the odd 4wd light error coming on after a few attempts at traction loss)

i had some very bizarre occurances with the grid danser when i accidently wired it the wrong way around, might be worth a check (i have instructions in the FAQ/tutorial section)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah that is not actually a lot. Just painting my GTR frontend and the little bits to make sideskirts/nismo flare pieces work correctly/fit on the sedan/mount up correctly came to about $7000. Is it a lot? Sure. None of this is economical. Economy would be shelling the car and buying a 2010 Corolla to commute in. The perspective of all of this is different.
    • I have the 2025 build re003s’ on my 06 XT Forester Turbo and I quite rate them for street wet and dry
    • I don't see any issues here. I've been saying all along this is a big job, the price reflects that.  When the car comes back perfect I'm sure it will feel like money well spent. 
    • Remember, take original quote. Double it. Then add a bit more. It's how any project goes.
    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
×
×
  • Create New...