Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

opened the bonnet the other day when doing my 3000km oil change to see my coolant reservoir was bloody low. Decided to drop the coolant and put fresh in, not sure if it has been because of the hot weather of late or

because of the coolant but water temps were a little hotter of late: 2-4 degrees... all went well, ran all the air out, job done.

Open up my garage today to see a huge pool of coolant under my car.... got under there and nothing from around the turbo, checked everywhere etc/... post-36975-0-40913600-1325486159_thumb.jpg

Couldn't see anything from the water pump because it had the cover over it, anyway found this little pool drippinglower down from around under the water pump area, so I am quite sure it has gone.. post-36975-0-64201400-1325486152_thumb.jpg

questions - 1. Will an N1 water pump fit my rb25de block or just go the standard rb25 pump?

2. If an N1 pump will fit, based on my power, and the fact that with the slightly higher compression my motor can suffer badly from heat soak, is an n1 water pump worth it or is it not even noticeable?

bloody annoying as I got my mechanic to do my timing belt (do most stuff myself but don't want to screw something like that up) 10,000kms ago as I was coming up to 200,000km, I am 400km off 200K and it has gone :@

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/387039-water-pump-replacement-rb25det/
Share on other sites

ahh cool, car is 100% street, in future would like to occasionally get it on the track. good to know the difference, thanks.

I was just wondering if the n1 pumps more water around or something along those lines to help stationary heat

n1 are just fine on the street,get a nismo thermostat as well if you can,my street driving temp in summer is never more than 78 deg even on a real hot day winter sits around 68-70 deg.

in the end get what you can afford or plan for your future mods.my 5c as

no and no

a n1 pump might work fine for most people but unless its a dedicated track car its a step backwards, a standard pump will work better in a street car, even one that sees track work.

those low temp thermostats would have to be the worst thing nismo has ever made, again a standard thermostat works much better all round, even for track cars. the standard ecu and 90% of aftermarket ecu's dont get out of cold enrichment until 80 deg, so having a low temp thermostat simply keeps you in cold enrichment longer and sometimes forever (winter nights) without actually helping to stop overheating at all. if your car overheats with a standard thermostat (provided its working of course) its still gonna overheat with a nismo thermostat.

Edited by JonnoHR31

^^^what he said. N1 pump is made to cope with high revs so not so good for normal use. Most journeys are less than 10km so an early opening thermostat just means it takes longer to get to proper operating temperature (or often never does so oil beomes more diluted). And once the thermostat is open it makes no difference to the cooling ability on a hot day or on the track.

Cheers guys,

Price was not really the issue, was the question of what will be more suitable.

I have looked on Kudos, there is also frsport but they are american so long time deliveries... but the thing that has put me off them is the postage... http://www.frsport.c...B26_p_9422.html

I don't remember it ever being that bad from frsport previously, but $211 for 2-3 days or $140 for 2-5 days to my door is ridiculas, the part is only listed on there for $100, so I will by from somewhere in aus like kudos.

Next thing is installing it - I do work on the car myself a fair bit, but I am not confident with removing the timing belt and lining everything up perfectly, so will take it to one of my trusted workshops, it is about 10 mins drive but based on the fact that I am losing > 1 litre a day without the motor running I don't think I want to turn it on again, thinking tow truck....

make sure that the coolant that came out is overflow, because my resorvoir is never that full if any and my temp is always half way at the right temp. and there is water in my radiator. just to double check you might be spending money for nothin. unless temp is too high once its hot then its pump.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...