Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB26 Short Motor $2800!! Perfect rebuild kit for an engine suffering the dreaded spun bearing saga or just somebody wanting forged internals for a steal!

Price includes Engine Block, Long Nose Crank (>1000kms old), Precision Motorsport H Beam conrods (http://www.precision...otorsports.html)and Arias 86.5mm forged pistons only (no ancillaries / sump etc).

The engine block has suffered a very small split inbetween No 3 and 4 cylinder which has been repaired using Irontite. Initial indications were a few drips of coolant under the car after shutdown, then the repair was carried out and it hasn’t leaked since. I am selling simply because in the race application I use the car for, it will not last the season and hence I need to replace it. Engine is still in car and running, interested parties are welcome to hear it running if need be.

Cheers,

Andrew

thumbsup.gif

post-3189-0-51454800-1325488345_thumb.jpgpost-3189-0-08688100-1325488357_thumb.jpgpost-3189-0-21013300-1325488371_thumb.jpg

Edited by Blue32

willing to separate and send crank only to sydney

Hi mate,

not at this stage, the engine is still useable in its current build state. I would if I have buyers for rods and pistons.

Is it possible to get photos of the repair? Leaking only water? Thanks

Ben,

Here is an image of when it first leaked. This was when hot and cooling system pressurised.

post-3189-0-99078600-1325678076_thumb.jpg

Hi -

Engine is still in car and running - will not be removed until bottom end is sold. Would still prefer a buyer for the bottom end complete, however if I were to split it crank $950 rods $700 pistons $700. Will not be splitting or dismantling till all is sold.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
    • Yeah, shame. Maybe  driver's carpet is available 🙏. I am waiting for both amayama and nangun to confirm.
×
×
  • Create New...