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How Do You 'tune Out' Flopping Rpm?

SargeRX8

By SargeRX8,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

the only suggestion i have is find someone with datalogit, copy your tune

get the engine setup correctly, base timing, remove your bov or fit it (how ever you like), check the aac valve, check idle air control, check for basic vac leaks etc

then DATA INIT

perform self idle adjust as per powerfc-faq

and let iet idle for 30 minutes (dont drive or f**k around, just let it idle as per instructions)

then confirm you have good idle and stable de-accel

ie go for a fang around the block and confirm its OK

then "write" your previous tune over the top

if you dont have access to datalogit its a bit painful to do it manually

ie pay someone beer to copy your tune

Ive got my own datalogit already attached to my ECU so I can do this my self(and I have before when my idle was shit). It was alright for a while then went to the shit after that. Ill try the other suggestions and raise the fuel cut to 2krpm and see how she goes. Then ill give it some timing to see if that helps. If not, ill erase the tune, setup my injectors n shit and let it do the idle crap. When you copy the old tune to the power fc, does this erase the idle settings?

15 14.70

15 15.17

20 13.94

20 14.31

20 14.42

That's my P01 to P05 in N01. Those aren't the actual wideband readings, just what is in the power fc.

After reading this bit, it makes me think you'd rather sound like a tool than have a car that runs correctly.

Tool? Its weird that HKS, Apexi, Greddy, Turbosmart etc all go through the effort of designing these blow off valves. Its weird that you watch almost ANY video of any slightly modified skyline over in Japan only to hear an aftermarket BOV. I really don't care if anyone thinks I'm a tool, in the eyes of 95% of the public, skyline owners are tools anyway. I drive my car the way I like. I make it move the way I like and I make it sound the way I like.

Edited by SargeRX8
JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted

When you copy the old tune to the power fc, does this erase the idle settings?

15 14.70

15 15.17

20 13.94

20 14.31

20 14.42

That's my P01 to P05 in N01. Those aren't the actual wideband readings, just what is in the power fc.

na it doesnt erase the idle learn, thats set in stone until you data init the pfc.

if raising the fuel cut and cleaning the aac valve doesnt help enough try raising those first to to 20 degrees instead of 15, it wont affect your idle, just help stop it stalling after dropping down.

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So you went 10 mins idle with air con off then turned it on? Did you leave it for 10 mins after that?

Yeah it was on the second 10 minute cycle. I switched the car off and started again and it was fine. still get the dip to about 600rpm. It's better than before, I'll live with it.

rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
Posted

Does the load go up on decel? If so you are getting maf reversion as in the air is reverting back through the afm causing the engine to over fuel. There is no way around this issue other than installing a bov that works properly which is about 10% of the manufacturers you described earlier! And don't think because it's branded that it means it's good! I went through this loop three times with a customer with a certain brand of intake which caused inconsistent fueling on his evoX!

Also if worst comes to worse you need the aac doing as little as possible. Ie disconnect the aac set the timing low at say 5 degrees then screw the bypass air valve out to get close to your desired idle speed then reconnect the aac. I would aim for a 5degree idle with 20degrees as it goes to sag.

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

I just cant believe the difference that changing the FC/1 and FC/2 settings to 1500 made to mine. Its great now

I was planning on tuning the idle cells to try and fix it one day but I'd never thought of changing those settings so gave it a go on the hand controller and was happy with the improvement.

I've got my idle values at around 14.6:1 AFR's and 20 degrees timing. It was pretty erratic in that area and smoothing it out the other day seems to have made it alot nicer. I looked at the example map that comes with FC edit and looked at the values they had around idle and bought my values a bit closer to them

copycutter Experienced

copycutter

Posted
Posted

Can I also resolve a problem similar to this from my hand controller? My car has the stock bov but seems to drop to 400-500rpm when I hit the clutch and then bounce back to normal idle. It also hunts and stalls sometimes, it seems worse when the car is cold or not quite warm. If its possible, can someone please explain how to do it from fc hand controller? It's fine every other part of the tune but this problem makes the car a pig to drive.

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

what are your fuel cells like around idle (p01 to p04, n01 to n04) ?

post them (in correction) Mine still has a recirc BOV so will probably be different, but someone probably has the same setup as you

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I shall post them as correction tonight. Note though my afm settings have been scaled.

I might be getting a new ecu if I can get a good deal. Either a g4 or haltech. Map sensor and fuel sensor = no air setup issues and variable fuels!

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Then do a run eith no intake pipe to see if its a restriction. I wanna see another 60kw from the big girl

Do you tune either of those ECU's?

P01 to P04 down wards and N01 to N04 across.

1.000 1.000 1.109 1.055

0.969 0.953 1.008 1.039

1.055 1.008 1.074 0.992

1.027 1.039 1.070 1.004

Edited by SargeRX8

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