Chasing That Stock Sound

[R33 Sleeper]

Go in the adelaide section and find AM Performance under worksops, contact Andrew re the screamer, does good work!

[GH05T]

Thanks mate will do today hopefully.

stock bov goes to the very far left pipe in this pic..

That image is a stock R32/R33 GTST intake pipe with all the EGR and BOV return pipes intact.

I assume yours is still there and just blocked off.

Replaced by the looks of things, is the stock setup better or good enough to replace the new pipes? Can I feed it back into their somehow?

Edited January 4, 2012 by GH05T

[GTSBoy]

OK, so in that bottom photo, where you can see the blue silicone hose connects onto the turbo inlet pipe (approx 1" hose clamped), that's your crankcase breather connection. The BOV return needs to go onto the same part of the turbo inlet pipe, preferably so that it is aimed towards the turbo rather than aimed towards the AFM. If you don't have another suitable fitting on that intake pipe already, you just need someone to bang a hole in it and weld on a new one, plus run the BOV return.

cheers

[Rolls]

rofl at the idiot that owned it before you.

Really must have thought he was cool, fluttering and screaming everywhere

You hate bovs and flutter more than most people hate rapists.

[Bsa]

haha nothing wrong with a bit of flutter not a fan of the screemer tho maybe on track

[Rolls]

I think flutter can sound good, it just gets annoying if you have it all day long.

[GH05T]

Ok, well, I had a productive day today.

Me and some mates were doing the clutch and got some new plugs to see if that was the problem.

Before we did anything we tested the coilpacks and they all seemed to work properly. But when we were f**king about we found one of the vacume lines at the rear of the head to be split

Very split.

Luckelly we had a blown rb20 their so swapped it out.

Not only did it get rid of the misfire, the starting issue and make everything smooth, when I drove it and hit boost it smashed streight past 1bar.

Dunno what it hit but I have wound the manual boost controller back 2 clicks and it's still above 1 bar.

I can only assume the old owner wound it up to compensate because before it only hit .9 bar as it was. Will be interesting to see how far back I have to wind it to go back to 1bar again.

Turbo seems much happier.

Even the flutter sounds different, mush deeper so it must be making much cleaner boost.

Also in regards to the screamer pipe. Unbolted the bottom clamp when we took the gearbox out when we did the clutch. It fell on the floor!

Shit welds shit piping which is bent and squashed pin holes in the welds and yeah slid into the turbo, probably not even the correct size so I'm. Ot supprised it has soot on the turbo side.

Dump pipe looks better

Edited January 8, 2012 by GH05T

[GTSBoy]

Yuh, that will do it. You can squirt a surprisingly large amount of air out of a leak like that, and that will cause the turbo to spin a lot faster than it should as well. And of course, vacuum leaks after the AFM will always negatively affect idle.

[Rolls]

The boost line came off my boost gauge, was enough of a leak to make it stall. Kind of makes finding these leaks a pain in the ass., especially if you have multiple not very bad ones.

Edited January 8, 2012 by Rolls

[The Mafia]

The boost line came off my boost gauge, was enough of a leak to make it stall.

And people still persist in fitting atmo bovs

[GH05T]

5 clicks backward on the boost controller and still spiking above 1 bar. What's the best way to do this. Wind it all the way closed an work backwards? How many clicks should it be?

[GH05T]

Another 3 clicks no change, starting to think the boost controllers ornamental or stuck open?

[Rolls]

It will run up to 12-13psi with no boost controller if you have a free flowing exhaust.

I bet you have loads of vacuum hose going to it which alone will increase the boost, just remove the controller altogether. I have a turbo shit dual stage bleed valve, even on the lowest setting it would spike to 15psi.

also wtf is "cleaner boost" rofl, I lold irl when I read that.

Edited January 8, 2012 by Rolls

[GH05T]

By cleaner boost I mean no stuttering no hesitation.

So what would happen uni wound the thing all the way negative? Will it actually stop any boost?

I just wanna run 1 bar

[Rolls]

A boost controller only lets you run more boost than the wastegate spring allows, not less.

So with a stock rb20 turbo with exhaust, front mount etc 10-13psi isn't uncommon "standard" so putting a boost controller on there set to 0 gain will often still run more boost due to the extra length in the lines.

Hence remove the boost controller and I have no doubt it will drop to your desired 1 bar.

[GH05T]

Well it seems to have a tendency to backfire or cutout/ missfire when it hits its high boost, which seems to be atm just over 1 bar but it dosnt feel safe holding it at this pressure due to the popping( not always )

also I don't seem to hear my screamer pipe now I think about it... More investigation tomorrow. I took some video of the gauge to see where it got to but u can't hear only of the backfiring or misfiring at top boost, what's actually setting my boost level ATM? The ecu/ Nistune? Fuel delivery? Turbo? I'm confused now, i can't see 16psi being standard?

Also for reference my boost controller

[kitto]

And people still persist in fitting atmo bovs

+1, its impossible to convince people they cause richness, idle issues, hesitation etc etc on an engine with an AFM. The ECU doesn't know WTF is going on when the atmo bov vents.

Well it seems to have a tendency to backfire or cutout/ missfire when it hits its high boost, which seems to be atm just over 1 bar but it dosnt feel safe holding it at this pressure due to the popping

Your still having ignition problems.

what's actually setting my boost level ATM? The ecu/ Nistune? Fuel delivery? Turbo? I'm confused now, i can't see 16psi being standard?

The boost controller. Its possible your fuel pump is NOT keeping up. You may or may not have a factory waste gate actuator. If its factory it is set to 10psi, but it may creep above this to 11-12 psi. If you have an after market waste gate, who knows what the spring rate is. Remove the boost controller all together and see what happens. Removing it wont do any damage. Just plumb from the turbo outlet into the waste gate actuator with some vacuum hose.

Also for reference my boost controller

Ewwww, yuk, old Turbosmart bleed valve. Disgusting, one of these caused me to blow a ring land in my old RB20.

[Rolls]

Well it seems to have a tendency to backfire or cutout/ missfire when it hits its high boost, which seems to be atm just over 1 bar but it dosnt feel safe holding it at this pressure due to the popping( not always )

also I don't seem to hear my screamer pipe now I think about it... More investigation tomorrow. I took some video of the gauge to see where it got to but u can't hear only of the backfiring or misfiring at top boost, what's actually setting my boost level ATM? The ecu/ Nistune? Fuel delivery? Turbo? I'm confused now, i can't see 16psi being standard?

UNPLUG THE THING FFS

Your boost level is set by your wastgate actuator spring, however when you change the exhaust this relieves backpressure and also increases it.

Standard with everything stock is 6psi, but with exhaust etc 12-13psi is normal.

Like I said twice before if you have the turbosmart piece of shit even with gain set to 0 the extra length of the lines etc will make it spike to 15psi etc, hence remove it!!!

The popping is because you haven't got an aftermarket ECU and the stock ECU is making it run rich as f**k, your stock coils, old plugs etc can't hack it and hence it misfires.

Conclusion: Remove the boost controller,

edit: google how a turbo wastegate (internal vs external) works and this will help you understand.

Edited January 8, 2012 by Rolls

[GH05T]

Kitto

The fuel pump is a bosh 440 with grt injectors, also a z32 AFM and a nistune ecu

Rolls

chill man i will when i have a chance,

and again i do have an aftermarket ecu, not a stock one. also i understand what your saying but it seems excessive. we shal see when i have time to remove the bleed valve.

[Rolls]

I have owned two rb20dets and they both ran 13psi with no boost controller, one ran 2.5" straight through exhaust, the other ran 3" with a single muffler