Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes,

I did these things before but not on a Skyline. (on MacPherson struts)

You start on one small thing, and in the end you rip the whole car apart.

With the Skyline's suspension matters seem to be a bit less painful though. :)

Lol, I see you've done this before...whistling.gif

Once you have the Whiteline bars, this is always something you can add at a later date.thumbsup.gif

Edited by Torques
  • 4 weeks later...

Yes, I did this before ... alas not on a Skyline.

It's mostly the same story, you start a small thing and 'while at it' you start other sub-projects since it all is conveniently taken apart anyhow :)

Someone told me that the adjustable bars may be problematic due to the fact that the angle to the link may become extreme.

Is this an issue?

Thaaanks!

Lol, I see you've done this before...whistling.gif

Once you have the Whiteline bars, this is always something you can add at a later date.thumbsup.gif

Yes, I did this before ... alas not on a Skyline.

It's mostly the same story, you start a small thing and 'while at it' you start other sub-projects since it all is conveniently taken apart anyhow :)

Someone told me that the adjustable bars may be problematic due to the fact that the angle to the link may become extreme.

Is this an issue?

Thaaanks!

Yep, I hear you there...whistling.gif

The Whiteline bars go through a lot of initial testing; and the parts you'd be looking to fit have been around for a while now, so that's a hell of a lot of cars doing "in the field" testing.

If there were any issues; I can assure you that Whiteline would've long ago spotted and corrected any potential problems.thumbsup.gif

I haven't personally fitted a set of Adjustable bars to an R33; but I have on an R34, which shares the same suspension architecture. I had no issues with alignment or fitting.

Bearing in mind the distance between the two adjustment holes on a BNR11XZ or BNR11XXZ is only 20-30mm; and the point where the OEM link would sits, is right between the two; misalignment is negligble.

BNR11XXZ.jpgBNR11XXZ-2.jpg

With regard to the BNF24Z; it has 4 adjustment holes.

The rear two, fall directly below the OEM link position (with the same centreing and 20-30mm spacing as the rear). The front two adjustment hole are accessed by flipping the link around to face the front; so the link alignment is retained. This is why there is a larger gap between the two centre adjustment hole in the pic below.

BNF24Z.jpg

Hopefully this answers your questions.thumbsup.gif

Hello there,

Thanks for the explanation and pictures, much appreciated.

So compared to the OEM part the holes are either more 'left' or 'right' ?

Is this the same with the non adjustable bar?

Daleo, can I ask if these whiteline swaybars have much effect on the way the car rides over normal bumps and undulations when driving straight? Or does a mod like this only really get noticed when cornering hard? What I mean is, would stiffer swaybars make a car more rough riding when just pootling around town or would you only really notice when fanging the car in the mountains?

Daleo, can I ask if these whiteline swaybars have much effect on the way the car rides over normal bumps and undulations when driving straight? Or does a mod like this only really get noticed when cornering hard? What I mean is, would stiffer swaybars make a car more rough riding when just pootling around town or would you only really notice when fanging the car in the mountains?

They do make a difference you can feel; but I wouldn't say it is a negative change.

Over single wheel bumps (potholes driveways) you do notice; because you are effectively increasing the spring rate of that wheel. This generally manifests as additional resistance to bottoming out and slightly firmer feeling suspension.

Over two wheel bumps (undulations and speed humps) you won't notice them at all; because the bar is unloaded, and just effectively floating.

Bars generally don't make the car ride rougher around town; in fact after adding heavier bars to my car, I was able to significantly soften the damping of my coilovers. This is because I didn't need to use the damping to cover up the sloppy response on turn in. I've had similar feedback from other people who've fitted bars.

So the end result in my case; was a more supple compliant car, that was much more able to follow the contours of a corner, rather than just crashing over them. Smoother, quieter, and above all shitloads quicker and composed in corners.

That's a win-win in my book.thumbsup.gif

Yep, I hear you there...whistling.gif

The Whiteline bars go through a lot of initial testing; and the parts you'd be looking to fit have been around for a while now, so that's a hell of a lot of cars doing "in the field" testing.

If there were any issues; I can assure you that Whiteline would've long ago spotted and corrected any potential problems.thumbsup.gif

I haven't personally fitted a set of Adjustable bars to an R33; but I have on an R34, which shares the same suspension architecture. I had no issues with alignment or fitting.

Bearing in mind the distance between the two adjustment holes on a BNR11XZ or BNR11XXZ is only 20-30mm; and the point where the OEM link would sits, is right between the two; misalignment is negligble.

BNR11XXZ.jpgBNR11XXZ-2.jpg

With regard to the BNF24Z; it has 4 adjustment holes.

The rear two, fall directly below the OEM link position (with the same centreing and 20-30mm spacing as the rear). The front two adjustment hole are accessed by flipping the link around to face the front; so the link alignment is retained. This is why there is a larger gap between the two centre adjustment hole in the pic below.

BNF24Z.jpg

Hopefully this answers your questions.thumbsup.gif

hey just haveing a read i have a R34 i installed both these sway bars today went in peace of cake best bang for ur buck thing to do i also brought them of this guy with no problems i can upload some pics of them in if it helps you decide :)

rear is piss eazy just drop ur exhaust down and it simple swap front i needed to drop the caster arms down to get to a bolt apart from that its ezy

hey just haveing a read i have a R34 i installed both these sway bars today went in peace of cake best bang for ur buck thing to do i also brought them of this guy with no problems i can upload some pics of them in if it helps you decide :)

rear is piss eazy just drop ur exhaust down and it simple swap front i needed to drop the caster arms down to get to a bolt apart from that its ezy

Hey Cody, Glad everything went well mate. Thanks for the feedback mate; really appreciate the kind words.:thumbsup:

Having to remove the caster rods is the only frustrating part of the job really; but no other way to get at that saddle bolt.:spank:

Cheers, Dale.

  • 10 months later...

Can confirm that rear 32 GTR sway bar will fit 32 gtst, fronts how ever will not.

I found this out after dropping castors arms and trying to fit gtr bar and there is no way said bar will fit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...