Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

so i pulled apart the hydraulic lifters for a clean as some were very noisey.

i basically followed this - http://www.gtrpwr.com/showthread.php?t=726 except i cleaned them individualy and left the lifters sumerged in motul 6100 15w50 oil for 48 hours, then put the lifters back into the spots they come from.

now after installing everything and checking timing about 5 times i have no compression in any cylinders..

if it possible that i have blead the lifters to much or am i missing something here?

That guide is correct way to do it, ive done a few sets exact like that with no problems. If you followed it then lifters shouldnt be the problem but hopefully its not the timing or else going to have some mashed valves.

the more i read around the different forums, some are saying to not pre prime the lifter before assembly, to let them prime once in the head?

i had a similar problem, poured a little bit of fresh oil into all the lifters before putting them back together and 1 ended up having too much and refused to bleed down, causing no compression on that cylinder. pulled it all apart and replaced the lifter with a spare and problem solved

i had a similar problem, poured a little bit of fresh oil into all the lifters before putting them back together and 1 ended up having too much and refused to bleed down, causing no compression on that cylinder. pulled it all apart and replaced the lifter with a spare and problem solved

i managed to figure out wtf i did wrong..

very stupit mistake.. when i was assembling the lifter bodies i managed to put them the wrong way around which is why they could no bleed down.. i i didnt put the check vavle side into the lifter body, but the other way around.

we dont believe it has done any valve damage but will know more later today :ph34r:

I havent cleaned mine as they were already clean, not knowing any better i hit them with compressed air and blew the old oil out after a soak in petrol. I hope I havent damaged them? a few were pumped up by air, will this bleed out or is this bad? engine not started yet. Any info would be good thanks

Bleeding air/oil out of lifters;

Pull lifters out of buckets, push a pin/ paper clip into the ball bearing part, afterwards it should compressby gently squeezing it, if it doesn't, it either has oil or air still in it

Leave in oil over night or put in and crank motor until you get oil pressure then start the car

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is [email protected]   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
    • shit boxes, kids, and daily drivers are all welcome
    • Cam seals go hard. It's a very old car.
×
×
  • Create New...