Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, just a quick question or two about external oil pumps for RB's running a steel sump.

I've tried searching for info about this and havn't come up with a definite conclusion.

What i'm wanting to do is fit an external oil pump to my 25 NEO along with a high volume sump.

Question is, where is the best place for the scavenge side of the pump?

Would it be adequate to remove the welsh plug on the left hand side of the factory oil, put in an AN fitting and use this as the pickup point. Or would the small size of the oil gallery be too restrictive for the external oil pump. The external oil pumps i have seen, have had a -12 fitting which is quite large. This option would be by far the easiest i believe. Mainly for the fact that if i bought an ASR sump i wouldn't have to modify it and put in a new pick up point.

Or is it more advisable to have a new fitting on the side of the sump and use this as the pick up point. Obviously and inline strainer is required. With regards to putting in a new fitting, how is it done, is the pick up just a pipe that runs into the centre of the sump with a strainer attached, or is it done vertically?

Thanks, Daniel

Hey everyone, just a quick question or two about external oil pumps for RB's running a steel sump.

I've tried searching for info about this and havn't come up with a definite conclusion.

What i'm wanting to do is fit an external oil pump to my 25 NEO along with a high volume sump.

Question is, where is the best place for the scavenge side of the pump?

Would it be adequate to remove the welsh plug on the left hand side of the factory oil, put in an AN fitting and use this as the pickup point. Or would the small size of the oil gallery be too restrictive for the external oil pump. The external oil pumps i have seen, have had a -12 fitting which is quite large. This option would be by far the easiest i believe. Mainly for the fact that if i bought an ASR sump i wouldn't have to modify it and put in a new pick up point.

Or is it more advisable to have a new fitting on the side of the sump and use this as the pick up point. Obviously and inline strainer is required. With regards to putting in a new fitting, how is it done, is the pick up just a pipe that runs into the centre of the sump with a strainer attached, or is it done vertically?

Thanks, Daniel

Got to ask why? I see in your signiture that its a track car but I would seriously think about just using a good quality internal pump with maybe a larger sump volume. Most external setups only introduce less redundancy for no real gain in horsepower. There are plenty of track rb's running internal pumps with no issues.

Got to ask why? I see in your signiture that its a track car but I would seriously think about just using a good quality internal pump with maybe a larger sump volume. Most external setups only introduce less redundancy for no real gain in horsepower. There are plenty of track rb's running internal pumps with no issues.

This would require a collar to be fitted to the crank to run a good quality pump. I just sold my Tomei pump so i can go external.

I am in no way going external oil pump for power gains. Only for reliability, thats it. They are much more reliable than any internal pump. Of course you have fittings that can leak and there is the possibility of the belt failing which i have not heard of. I will be fitting an aluminium bash plate to prevent sticks and stones flicking up into to the pump/belt area.

An external oil pump with an accusump, a high volume sump is a bullet proof oil setup. I'm also doing this external oil pump, so that when my RB26 is built, i simply remove it from the NEO and put it onto my RB26, of course with a new sump to suit.

bigmikespec - Would you just modify the factory pickup and weld on a 90 bend and point it straight out the side of the pan?

This would require a collar to be fitted to the crank to run a good quality pump. I just sold my Tomei pump so i can go external.

I am in no way going external oil pump for power gains. Only for reliability, thats it. They are much more reliable than any internal pump. Of course you have fittings that can leak and there is the possibility of the belt failing which i have not heard of. I will be fitting an aluminium bash plate to prevent sticks and stones flicking up into to the pump/belt area.

An external oil pump with an accusump, a high volume sump is a bullet proof oil setup. I'm also doing this external oil pump, so that when my RB26 is built, i simply remove it from the NEO and put it onto my RB26, of course with a new sump to suit.

bigmikespec - Would you just modify the factory pickup and weld on a 90 bend and point it straight out the side of the pan?

Really I've heard of plenty of belt failures/belts walking off - but I've been in the industry for a while. If you must do it I would look closely at an EVOX sump. They integrate an external like pump into the sump.

Dont forget that your most likely going to run into oil control issues as well with the extra flow - all managable if you know what your doing.

Really I've heard of plenty of belt failures/belts walking off - but I've been in the industry for a while. If you must do it I would look closely at an EVOX sump. They integrate an external like pump into the sump.

Dont forget that your most likely going to run into oil control issues as well with the extra flow - all managable if you know what your doing.

Dont tell me youve seen belts throw off lol.

EVOX sump, hmm never heard of it? Any details on it? Links?

Yes, oil control is my main concern with this engine aswell as my RB26. I'm pulling the head off, throwing restrictors in, most likely i'll drill out all of the oil drains.

I'll be putting 1 or 2 -12 fittings on the RH side of the sump that will run to the top of the catch can to vent crankcase pressure. Obviously good head venting will be done. I'm trying to do every oil control mod i can think of without going overboard and overboard on spending.

The NEO comes with an N1 oil pump factory, Sure if i'm careful and avoid rev limiter and i put on a good harmonic balancer i shouldn't run into issues. But there is just that chance the gears could crack. (Waits for Ash to come on here and rant on about how good factory oil pumps are lol).

Dont tell me youve seen belts throw off lol.

EVOX sump, hmm never heard of it? Any details on it? Links?

Yes, oil control is my main concern with this engine aswell as my RB26. I'm pulling the head off, throwing restrictors in, most likely i'll drill out all of the oil drains.

I'll be putting 1 or 2 -12 fittings on the RH side of the sump that will run to the top of the catch can to vent crankcase pressure. Obviously good head venting will be done. I'm trying to do every oil control mod i can think of without going overboard and overboard on spending.

The NEO comes with an N1 oil pump factory, Sure if i'm careful and avoid rev limiter and i put on a good harmonic balancer i shouldn't run into issues. But there is just that chance the gears could crack. (Waits for Ash to come on here and rant on about how good factory oil pumps are lol).

I might be telling porkies - it was the golf engine that integrated the oil pump into the sump. You maybe able to run a sprocket of the crank straight into the sump if you remove the oil pump would have to make covers though.

post-19559-0-91139900-1326531463_thumb.jpg

Yeah nah not doing that lol. Means having to pull the crank out and fit a collar.

I'm more or less looking for a bolt on kit.

External oil pumps are pretty cheap to set up nowadays.

I've done heaps of these setups.

They can and do throw belts it's not all that uncommon. Make sure you have proper hob switch protection to shut the engine down.

When we do Sumps for them they have a pickup that follows the perimeter of the Sumps bowl section floor. 3/4 diameter with holes bored in the bottom to draw through, end is blocked off. There is also additional baffling Around the pick up tube. The outlet comes out at the base of the sump with a -12an fitting.

External setups require a far larger oil supply than the factory pick up can supply, you need to know the flow rates of the pump you have to design a pick up arrangement to suit it.

You'll need more than the ordinary oil control modifications with some external pumps as well.

I think you need to sit down and actually work out what your doing with it rather than trying to throw a restrictor and pick up at it.

That won't work.

I've done heaps of these setups.

They can and do throw belts it's not all that uncommon. Make sure you have proper hob switch protection to shut the engine down.

When we do Sumps for them they have a pickup that follows the perimeter of the Sumps bowl section floor. 3/4 diameter with holes bored in the bottom to draw through, end is blocked off. There is also additional baffling Around the pick up tube. The outlet comes out at the base of the sump with a -12an fitting.

External setups require a far larger oil supply than the factory pick up can supply, you need to know the flow rates of the pump you have to design a pick up arrangement to suit it.

You'll need more than the ordinary oil control modifications with some external pumps as well.

I think you need to sit down and actually work out what your doing with it rather than trying to throw a restrictor and pick up at it.

That won't work.

So how commonly do belts actually come off?

The pump im looking at using is an aviaid, it flows 16 gallons per minute which is 62 Litres/min roughly. At what RPM i can't remember.

So the sumps you build have a specially designed baffle, with the pickup on the bottom of the sump? How do you go about this with clearance issues?

By more than the ordinary oil control, what do you mean?

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...