Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I've just been looking on the DBA website for some new rotors but it looks like they are only making them for Brembo calipers. I've had a bit of a search and not really come up with much as far as options. I don't want to upgrade my brakes or add spacers/brakets ect ect just to accomodate for the larger DBAs.

So my question is what are my options for keeping the standard calipers, the car's not a daily and I'd like to start doing some light track work with it soon. So looking for something slotted.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388449-r32-gtr-sumitomo-calipers/
Share on other sites

Just look for R33 gts-t. Same thing.

Get RDA, better value if you are only doing the odd track trip in a stocker car.

Pretty sure gtst rotors 2mm thinner, ie 30mm while early gtr is 32mm.

+1 for RDAs.

I've just been looking on the DBA website for some new rotors but it looks like they are only making them for Brembo calipers. I've had a bit of a search and not really come up with much as far as options. I don't want to upgrade my brakes or add spacers/brakets ect ect just to accomodate for the larger DBAs.

Hi mate,

DBA definitely do your rotors in 4000 series slotted, and for track work would be the ideal option. Made in Australia, high carbon content (for better performance and longer life) and thermal marking paint to monitor track temps. To suit your car are $198 each for the front, and $148.50 each for the rear.

Just look for R33 gts-t. Same thing.

They fit, but they're not the same thing. The GTR rotors are 2mm thicker than the GTS-T. Doesn't sound like much but thermal mass when you're chasing performance is significant.

Get RDA, better value if you are only doing the odd track trip in a stocker car.

They're cheaper, but when being used hard won't last as long as the 4000 series, so some of that cost saving is offset by that. RDA slotted to suit are $349 for the front pair, and $185 for the rear pair.

Going up from that would be something from Project Mu, but the pricing gets fairly serious also.

Any questions at all just let us know!

Regards,

Greg

Ah ok, 2mm - fair point.

You can get the RDA under $300 a pair for fronts if you shop around. Could go through 1.5 sets of RDA for the price of one set of DBA. Comes down to what the end user wants/budget as there is nearly 40% price difference.

RE: Rotor wear. It is as much about pad choice in terms of how long a rotor will last. Get a pad that is hard on rotors, and rotor composition will be the least of your worries.

I've got the new club spec slot 4000series on my 32gtr.

Got the whole set for 600(4 rotors).

Keep looking, they are on the website.

From memory, not with the rest, have to go down the list a bit.

DBA definitely do your rotors in 4000 series slotted, and for track work would be the ideal option.

A couple of years back bunch of us had 4000's crack with track use (the thread should be easy to find). Are they any better now?

Yep, it was mainly down to the old slot design. Same reason the 5000 series in the old design never had that extra little slot on the outside that the 4000 did.

I'm in now way knocking RDA (well sell thousands of their rotors every year with never a problem) but when used with an aggressive race or street pad, the DBA will easily pull back the 40% price difference in terms of rotor life.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...