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Cams and cam gears are in... only thing is i need someone i Melb that has a blown RB20 that i can steal some parts off.

I need the cap for cylinder no.6 on the inlet cam...as one of the stud has siezed in the aluminium cap, i was lucky to get it unbolted from the head without snapping or seizing...

Anyone in Melb able to help me out, or know of a friend/workshop that can help me without woth one (will need thw two stude that go with it as well.


hey Roy, i had the same problem when i put a new head on my rb20... i just pressed the bolts out, and then buffed the on a wire wheel, and saoked the caps in subaru upper engine cleaner... gets rid of the carbon good wink.gif (helps when you work at a subaru dealership)
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yeah basically anything aftermarket that allows you to play with ignition timing and fuel you should be sweet.

unfortunately im too poor now :(

i was going to suggest maybe the IAC (idle air Control) valve, becuase at idle, you throttle is not open at all, and if the IAC isnt open enough, or slowly closing, it wont idle, but as soon as you open the throttle, it would be fine....so it probably is the cams that are causing the problem, via the IAC valve, if that makes any sense

I tried tapping it out, i tried heating (different expansion rates of alloy - steel), i tried soaking in WD40 overniht, this puppy will not budge. When i was removing it, the mroe i turned it the more it bound up. By the time i got it off it was next to impossible to even turn. Im assuming the metals have galled, so goodbye to ever using it again.

As for ecu, mine is a re-written std one which going by the colour of the plugs runs pretty lean. Im not too worried about getting it to idle, worst car scenario ill tighten up the throttle cable to get an 1100rpm idle. Its getting tuned as soon as i am able to fix this cap.

Walked to work today!!!! I need to thrash my car around a circuit so that i can remind myself what all this agro is for.... the install was a piece of piss as well, right up to the last cap... a little uipset that such a silly little prob is stopping it all going back together.... always happens this way though

I tried tapping it out, i tried heating (different expansion rates of alloy - steel), i tried soaking in WD40 overniht, this puppy will not budge. When i was removing it, the mroe i turned it the more it bound up. By the time i got it off it was next to impossible to even turn.  Im assuming the metals have galled, so goodbye to ever using it again.

As for ecu, mine is a re-written std one which going by the colour of the plugs runs pretty lean.  Im not too worried about getting it to idle, worst car scenario ill tighten up the throttle cable to get an 1100rpm idle. Its getting tuned as soon as i am able to fix this cap.

yeah, well as i was sayin roy, if you have access to a press, you can get them out easy.... put a 10mm deep socket on the cap bolt, turn it upside down, and put another bokt or a pin punch on the tip of the siezed bolt, and press it out... took about 5 tons to press mine out... then just clean up inside the cap with ultra fine wet n dry and a bit of upper engine cleaner

Can someone answer my earlier question plz?

Camshafts from rb26 should be able to go into a red top rb20?

regardless of the age of the engine ..... i'd imagine it would be similar to the silver top head

at the moment i'm saving up my pennys for a BIG upgrade next year .... with Wolf3d and gt2530 turbo ..... hopefully with gtr parts as well ... jsut want to finalize what i can buy ...IF i can buy that is

Thanks guys

Matt

Based on the pioneer work some of the guys like bbenny etc have doen trying this (well on SAU anyway) i dotn think you will get anyone to confirm that you can used them ont hered top engine.... i suspect you will be right, but wont hurt to buy some cams and give it a try, you will lose an afternoon trying, and if they dont fit then you can easily sell them and get your money back.... just dont snap a stud or seize a stud int he journal and its a free exercise trying:)

Well scratch up another that couldnt get the thing to idle, and then afer a bit couldnt even get it to run.

I tried a bucket load of things to get right, biggest thing couldnt get the thing to fire after a while , but car will be at mechanics tomorrow getting tuned / fixed...pending getting my hands on a PFC ill be able to post up some figures, and hopefully have a car that will idle and drive nice.

Thanks to bbenny, Doughboy and 46n2 for their help, corruption and advice (in no particular order)

Ive got an aftermarket turbo, bigger injectors, adjustable cam gears, R33 Series II AFM and re-written Jap ECU... so the re-writen ECU and bigger injectors were going to either help me or hinder me more then bbenny with the std ECU and injectors.... it turned out to be more a hindrance it appears.

Hmmmmm........ well at least it looks like everyone is having no probs with the installation as such, just the nature of the ecu stopping the whole thing from working

Will be interesting to see how it goes with the PFC Roy

cool good luck...

mine goes into the experts on thursday and i have already spoken to them about the possibility of idling problems and they said the only bad thing would be lumpy idle, not idling problems - unless it was too lumpy to idle, but with only mild increase in lift it should be fine apparently (said by mechanic)

  • 2 weeks later...
Hi Benny,  

1. We have, 4 so far

2. None

3. Very much depends on what else you have done.  But from what we have seen, you will get;

A. earlier boost build

B. faster throttle response

C. about 15 rwkw increase in the average power from 4,000 rpm to 7,000 rpm

D. about 10 rwkw increase in max power

If you are on a budget and can do it yourself it is very worthwhile.  If you can't DIY then you may well be better off spending a few hundred extra on used aftermarket cams, as the fitting cost will be the same.  As Autobarn suggested, there are a few HKS 264's around that are a step up from standard RB26 cams

Hope that helps

Would you please explain how you would benefit from GTR cams in an RB20, when RB20DET cams have a duration of 247/8 degrees and HYDRAULIC LIFTERS and GTR cams have a duration of 240 and SOLID LIFTERS.

It's my understanding solid lifter cams won't work in hydraulic lifter engines as the profile shape is different.

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