Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys ive got up for sale my fully forged built 1000hp Rb26. Heres the list of the parts worth 22k+......

1000hp R33 Motor:

CP Pistons

Howard Rods

Head with mild ports

282 spec cams with retainers

ARP head and main studs

Ati balancer

Custom Valves

Custom springs

Jun oil pump

Trust sump with extension

Block has been specially prepped & cleaned

Crank has been prepped & fully balanced

Motor built by Matouk Performance in sydney, does not come with turbos or manifolds etc. just rocker cover to sump

Motor made 700-750rwhp with T51R with plenty more left in it!!

For any questions pm me or msg me on 0448868384..cheers

Selling for $8,000, which is alot less than it cost to build the motor. It has been only driven around 3000kms so still new.<br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); ">

<br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); ">Sorry guys i do not have the reciepts from the build..Call 0434778285 for proof of build.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388663-fs-fully-forged-rb26-motor-8000/
Share on other sites

is this motor at japanese motorsport? i was told its a 2.7 litre?? whats the deal with it? and was also told n1 oil pump??

yes it is at japanese motorsport, its a 2.6l mate and its not an n1 pump

Edited by scr33m
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Engine is getting pulled apart within the next few weeks to get a proper list of the mods done to the engine because i don't have receipts for the build. So if you are interested let me know soon if you want the head or bottom end, full motor etc...cheers

post-75654-0-57339200-1333443325_thumb.jpg

post-75654-0-27655700-1333443384_thumb.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...

Confirming its 3000Km on it, im a little interested in the bottom end....

Would you be willing to show it with the sump and rod caps removed and head off to inspect the bores, bearings, crank journals and oil pump?

Over bore? Brand of bearings? Built loose or tight? Are the crank journals the factiry size or have they been machined down? 8.5 or 9 to 1 pistons? Standard CP gudgon pins or heavier ones?

Some high quality pictures may make it worth looking further into, if i like what i see id come over to inspect it.

Edited by GTRPSI

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...