Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just recently bought an r34 and it has a fibreglass vented hood. Seems to leak water into the engine when it rains and the car wouldnt move and kept stalling as the water had got into the intake (i think)

i have an unenclosed pod filter... so maybe thats the issue ?

Im quite sure this isnt a normal thing to happen just because i have a vented hoods! any ideas ? im thinking of somehow blocking the vents to stop water leaking..

- attatched a photo of my engine bay and hood

thanks guyss

post-78613-0-53537900-1327482894_thumb.jpg

post-78613-0-85904200-1327482899_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389376-water-leaking-through-vented-hood/
Share on other sites

i had the same style on my 33, water use to enter through the left hand corner of the main opening, would go into the airbox snorkel straight into the airbox till it filled enough to go into the intake.

I cant see exactly where the snorkel ends on yours but if it is directly above the filter or even against the side that is probably your problem, could also be that the water is getting into the electronics of the afm.

FYI i hope you bought the bonnet for cosmetic reasons, i weighed mine when i changed back to the standard one, the fibreglass one weighed 18.x kg and the standard was 15.x

Removing the snorkel and fitting a cai will probably fix it, unless the 34 bonnet weighs 5x more than the 33 i will guarantee you that there is not that much difference, i dont think real carbon fiber has that much of a weight difference.

The water is getting directly into the engine bay and onto the pod fitler and i think blocking it from breathing properly ? so i dont think the snorkel would work :( and as for the bonnet.. well i can literally hold it with 1 finger and it looks so easy to snap! so im quite sure its light asss

i had the same style on my 33, water use to enter through the left hand corner of the main opening, would go into the airbox snorkel straight into the airbox till it filled enough to go into the intake.

I cant see exactly where the snorkel ends on yours but if it is directly above the filter or even against the side that is probably your problem, could also be that the water is getting into the electronics of the afm.

FYI i hope you bought the bonnet for cosmetic reasons, i weighed mine when i changed back to the standard one, the fibreglass one weighed 18.x kg and the standard was 15.x

r34 bonnets are heavy as hell

Is there anyway i can just BLOCK the vents on the bonnet?

You could get some sikaflex and thin plastic (ice cream tub should do) and stick the plastic over the holes on the inside of the bonnet, you will have to leave a hole some where tho or you will end up with a swimming pool on your bonnet.

Since it is a non turbo for now just remove the snorkel, i doubt the heat of a non turbo will hurt power, drive it round for a while with out the snorkel if you notice a big difference in power get a CAI if not then you fixed it for free.

I think the position of the middle vent means water goes to the front of the engine its jst the left..

ANd im not sure what you guys mean when you say remove the snorkel ? the water is getting onto the pod DIRECTLY from the vent not through the snorkel!

thanks for the responses!

Well in going of the exact same problem with that exact same styled bonnet on my 33, the water would come in through the corner of the vent run onto the opening of the snorkel that sits on the rad support and then run down the snorkel into my air box, in your case onto your pod filter, instead of arguing with the answers try it, will take you not even a minute to take it off, if it does not work put it back on again.

Looks like you have the very basic water injection kit lol, can only be a good thing just needs a tune with the new setup :P

Jokes aside, is it possible the water is getting in to the coil packs? there is a big thread on vented bonnets and water issues brought up just recently and water getting into coil packs that was usually the main cause for problems.

Would that cause stuttering ? and stalling ? I just assumed it was the air filter because it was wet and when my AFM was broken it would do the same thing.

For now i just put an icecream tub over it and it seems to work :)

Removing the snorkel and fitting a cai will probably fix it, unless the 34 bonnet weighs 5x more than the 33 i will guarantee you that there is not that much difference, i dont think real carbon fiber has that much of a weight difference.

acutally it would be quite a difference;

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/147450-r34-gtr-oem-vs-hybrid-carbon-bonnet.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...