Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just recently bought an r34 and it has a fibreglass vented hood. Seems to leak water into the engine when it rains and the car wouldnt move and kept stalling as the water had got into the intake (i think)

i have an unenclosed pod filter... so maybe thats the issue ?

Im quite sure this isnt a normal thing to happen just because i have a vented hoods! any ideas ? im thinking of somehow blocking the vents to stop water leaking..

- attatched a photo of my engine bay and hood

thanks guyss

post-78613-0-53537900-1327482894_thumb.jpg

post-78613-0-85904200-1327482899_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389376-water-leaking-through-vented-hood/
Share on other sites

i had the same style on my 33, water use to enter through the left hand corner of the main opening, would go into the airbox snorkel straight into the airbox till it filled enough to go into the intake.

I cant see exactly where the snorkel ends on yours but if it is directly above the filter or even against the side that is probably your problem, could also be that the water is getting into the electronics of the afm.

FYI i hope you bought the bonnet for cosmetic reasons, i weighed mine when i changed back to the standard one, the fibreglass one weighed 18.x kg and the standard was 15.x

Removing the snorkel and fitting a cai will probably fix it, unless the 34 bonnet weighs 5x more than the 33 i will guarantee you that there is not that much difference, i dont think real carbon fiber has that much of a weight difference.

The water is getting directly into the engine bay and onto the pod fitler and i think blocking it from breathing properly ? so i dont think the snorkel would work :( and as for the bonnet.. well i can literally hold it with 1 finger and it looks so easy to snap! so im quite sure its light asss

i had the same style on my 33, water use to enter through the left hand corner of the main opening, would go into the airbox snorkel straight into the airbox till it filled enough to go into the intake.

I cant see exactly where the snorkel ends on yours but if it is directly above the filter or even against the side that is probably your problem, could also be that the water is getting into the electronics of the afm.

FYI i hope you bought the bonnet for cosmetic reasons, i weighed mine when i changed back to the standard one, the fibreglass one weighed 18.x kg and the standard was 15.x

r34 bonnets are heavy as hell

Is there anyway i can just BLOCK the vents on the bonnet?

You could get some sikaflex and thin plastic (ice cream tub should do) and stick the plastic over the holes on the inside of the bonnet, you will have to leave a hole some where tho or you will end up with a swimming pool on your bonnet.

Since it is a non turbo for now just remove the snorkel, i doubt the heat of a non turbo will hurt power, drive it round for a while with out the snorkel if you notice a big difference in power get a CAI if not then you fixed it for free.

I think the position of the middle vent means water goes to the front of the engine its jst the left..

ANd im not sure what you guys mean when you say remove the snorkel ? the water is getting onto the pod DIRECTLY from the vent not through the snorkel!

thanks for the responses!

Well in going of the exact same problem with that exact same styled bonnet on my 33, the water would come in through the corner of the vent run onto the opening of the snorkel that sits on the rad support and then run down the snorkel into my air box, in your case onto your pod filter, instead of arguing with the answers try it, will take you not even a minute to take it off, if it does not work put it back on again.

Looks like you have the very basic water injection kit lol, can only be a good thing just needs a tune with the new setup :P

Jokes aside, is it possible the water is getting in to the coil packs? there is a big thread on vented bonnets and water issues brought up just recently and water getting into coil packs that was usually the main cause for problems.

Would that cause stuttering ? and stalling ? I just assumed it was the air filter because it was wet and when my AFM was broken it would do the same thing.

For now i just put an icecream tub over it and it seems to work :)

Removing the snorkel and fitting a cai will probably fix it, unless the 34 bonnet weighs 5x more than the 33 i will guarantee you that there is not that much difference, i dont think real carbon fiber has that much of a weight difference.

acutally it would be quite a difference;

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/147450-r34-gtr-oem-vs-hybrid-carbon-bonnet.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...