Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm selling my R32 gts-t, 1989 'Type M' - 192000kms

Mods include:

-HKS2530 turbo - Checked by Hypergear and with a new compressor wheel 5000kms ago.

-Z32 AFM

-RB20 PowerFC with controller

-Bosch 040 fuel pump

-GTR injectors with ballast

-Cooling Pro FMIC

-Yellow jacket coil packs

-Adjustable cam gears

-HKS split dump pipe, through to X-Force hi-flow cat and exhaust

-Bilstein struts with Whiteline springs as sold by SydneyKid

-Front and rear whiteline strut braces

The engine mods were done about 2 years ago, built to be a track car but once I finished it I didn't have the money or time. It's only been driven approx 5000kms over these 2 years.

At the time of the mods I also put in a new Exedy HD clutch.

The tyres are near new with Federal 595's on the rear and Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin's on the front.

The car was tuned by Ed at Autotech and was dynoed at around 215rwkw at about 17-18 psi. It is a really responsive turbo.

The gearbox is a little noisy and there are a few chips and mark as expected of a car this age, The rear right of the body kit is starting to come away slightly. Interior is pretty good except the steering wheel and a small tear in the passenger door vinyl. Has a sunroof.

Looking for around $9000 at the moment but happy to negotiate.

Call or text me on 0430-508-321 if you are interested.

Cheers,

Adrian

post-1667-0-07705300-1327635697_thumb.jpg

post-1667-0-77100300-1327635738_thumb.jpg

post-1667-0-97273100-1327635744_thumb.jpg

post-1667-0-21919300-1327635751_thumb.jpg

Edited by Kwyjibo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389545-fs-r32-gts-t/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...